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RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 2:16 am
by Mothers Penis
So I moved from ebb&flow Sea Of Green to RDWC lately ... I build myself a 3 20L buckets system , 2 of them being use for 2 plant and one is the "control" bucket with my pump and ph sensor .

The ferts I'm using are Optimum Hydroponix http://www.optimum-hydroponix.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; + Super Vit and Root Complex from Hesi ... I know Lucas Formula with GH seems the way to go , but I would like to finish the ferts I already own before switching to anything else .

My plant are about 3feet tall after 4 weeks of veg but are showing ferts burn at only 900 PPM (Hanna) ... I never had ferts burn before may it be in ProMix or Ebb&flow using the same water and ferts at PPM of 1100 at the same plant age ???

So it seems DWC need less PPM of ferts ? And what level of PPM would you suggest ? And do you think those levels would fit with the ferts I'm using ???

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:27 pm
by Sun
Not sure, but if you ever want my exact formula I'll give it to you...it's way better then the Lucas formula

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 6:11 pm
by Mothers Penis
I would love that ! I'm a noob to RDWC and I know you became a expert to it , also I have no doubt that a Juice/Guano/Sun/Dirt/etc formula could be better then a Lucas formula .

Thx a bunch for your help .

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 7:38 pm
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Mothers Penis wrote:So I moved from ebb&flow Sea Of Green to RDWC lately ... I build myself a 3 20L buckets system , 2 of them being use for 2 plant and one is the "control" bucket with my pump and ph sensor .

The ferts I'm using are Optimum Hydroponix http://www.optimum-hydroponix.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; + Super Vit and Root Complex from Hesi ... I know Lucas Formula with GH seems the way to go , but I would like to finish the ferts I already own before switching to anything else .

My plant are about 3feet tall after 4 weeks of veg but are showing ferts burn at only 900 PPM (Hanna) ... I never had ferts burn before may it be in ProMix or Ebb&flow using the same water and ferts at PPM of 1100 at the same plant age ???

So it seems DWC need less PPM of ferts ? And what level of PPM would you suggest ? And do you think those levels would fit with the ferts I'm using ???
You've got me a little confused here, Mother.

Promix and Ebb&Flo in the same sentence? Whatever, 1100PPM does seem a bit high for that stage of growth, imo.

In my opinion, the amount of PPM's in a E&F and DWC should be roughly the same. As you know, all plants are different, though. I don't know anything about the ferts you are currently using, sorry. I can't find any product details on Optimum Hydroponix® :dunno:

A general rule of thumb is (taken from another site as I couldn't find it here :dunno: :oops:).

PPM Feeding schedule and PPM chart with conversion calculations:

Seedlings, Early Sprouts from 0 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700

Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600
PPM-EC-C.jpg
Then here's some other feeding schedules I just found that might be helpful, if not to you but maybe others...

I found them at...

http://www.gthydro.com/nutrientfeedings ... harts.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
TechnafloraSchedule.jpg
http://www.gthydro.com/images/feedingch ... nglish.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
GH_catalogPPMFeed 01.jpg
GH_catalogPPMFeed 02.jpg
http://www.gthydro.com/images/feedingch ... alog04.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
AtamiBcuzzNutrientShchedule.jpg
http://www.gthydro.com/images/feedingch ... hedule.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I can't find that pretty colored PPM feeding chart....the one that was on PG and showed the range of PPM's that the plant uptakes the particular nutrients at.

I hope this helps and I wish you all things green :toker1:

Take care, Mother!,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 8:24 pm
by Mothers Penis
Thx a lot Whab , this info does help .

P.S.: My mother plants for clones was in ProMix but I use to grow the clones in Ebb&Flow once rooted .

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:14 pm
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Mothers Penis wrote:Thx a lot Whab , this info does help .

P.S.: My mother plants for clones was in ProMix but I use to grow the clones in Ebb&Flow once rooted .
You're welcome, Mother.

Ok, now I understand.

I also found the pH nutrient uptake chart I was looking for and another one too.
pHNutrientUptakeChart 01.jpg
pHNutrientUptakeChart 02.jpg
I'll see if we can put this in one easily locatable place for future reference.

Keep it Green, Mother!

Take care,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:45 pm
by Mothers Penis
Keep it Green, Mother!
I'm trying , I did a water only (ph adjusted) wash 2 days ago and yesterday I cut back the PPM to 550 before starting this thread ... they kind of look better , only time will tell eh...

BTW , anyone knows about a small affordable water chiller ? The smallest one I seen at the grow shop was like 450$ !! I only use 30 Liters of water in my small set-up so I dont need some big fancy chiller ... My water temps rise to 75 F , so I use frozen bottle of water but then temps drops to 60-62 F , and from what I read 68F is the perfect temp ... I do check my roots and there is no sign of pythium yet (knock on wood) .

I guess it wasn't really wise of me to start a RDWC in the middle of summer ... but cold weather is coming my way fast ...

You take care also Whab and thx again.

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 11:58 pm
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Mothers Penis wrote:
Keep it Green, Mother!
I'm trying , I did a water only (ph adjusted) wash 2 days ago and yesterday I cut back the PPM to 550 before starting this thread ... they kind of look better , only time will tell eh...

BTW , anyone knows about a small affordable water chiller ? The smallest one I seen at the grow shop was like 450$ !! I only use 30 Liters of water in my small set-up so I dont need some big fancy chiller ... My water temps rise to 75 F , so I use frozen bottle of water but then temps drops to 60-62 F , and from what I read 68F is the perfect temp ... I do check my roots and there is no sign of pythium yet (knock on wood) .

I guess it wasn't really wise of me to start a RDWC in the middle of summer ... but cold weather is coming my way fast ...

You take care also Whab and thx again.
Indeed, time will tell.
Mothers Penis wrote:BTW , anyone knows about a small affordable water chiller ?
No, I'm not aware of any affordable chillers manufactured for such duty.

I am, however, aware of a cool DIY that's just the ticket. Get, find, buy, beg, borrow, steal (joking on the stealing bit :winky:) a water cooler....the vertical kind you find in offices that you load the bottle on top of. Make sure it is the cooling type and not just a room-temperature water dispenser--normally the ones that heat water also cool it too. Then you take the cooling mechanism out of it and use that in your system...directly in your reservior. I've seen them for as little as $30usd on craigslist....sometimes free IF you have time and keep an eye out for them long enough.

In the interim you definitely need to keep the reservoir temps below 70F (actually, in the plant buckets themselves). By what ever method....even blowing on it :winky: A fan can often help in this effort--blowing directly into the reservoir....IF you only need to adjust a few degrees.

You can also accomplish cooling your reservoir by cooling the room/space it is in. Typically by way of an air-conditioner....even a small one and put it in its own space with the reservoir...and recirculate it often...or according to what your temperature gauge/sensors tell you.

In your current situations and temps of 75F (besides your method of using iced bottles to cool it) I would recommend Hydrozyme or a similar product. It can be an ass-saver. Also, once I got my own pythium problem under control (that killed one of four plants in the system) I routinely used 1teaspoon per gallon of H2O2 with every reservoir change.

Winter is, indeed, coming, but let's try and get you through to a successful harvest now :winky:

Thanks....you're welcome, Mother and it is my pleasure, sincerely. I'm glad to help where and IF I can!

Again, Keep it Green.....you try and I'll help (IF I can) :winky:

[Wow, my browser just crashed again, but it didn't lose the text (my response) this time...wow!]

Take care, Mother,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:24 am
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Hah!, look what was in the "Random Images" above the scroll on the main page?
PPMChartHydroOnly.jpg
Man, I looked all over this place and the web for that damn thing :pullhair: :roflmao:

Take care all!,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:43 am
by Mothers Penis
I am, however, aware of a cool DIY that's just the ticket. Get, find, buy, beg, borrow, steal (joking on the stealing bit :winky:) a water cooler....the vertical kind you find in offices that you load the bottle on top of. Make sure it is the cooling type and not just a room-temperature water dispenser--normally the ones that heat water also cool it too. Then you take the cooling mechanism out of it and use that in your system...directly in your reservior. I've seen them for as little as $30usd on craigslist....sometimes free IF you have time and keep an eye out for them long enough.
This is brilliant ! The kind of answer I was hoping for : a do it yourself affordable yet efficient solution for a water chiller !! That is right up my lane , I always build myself the most that I can for my grow rooms , build my own Ebb&Flow table and RDWC system , also a carbon scrubber (that I need to work on , it did cut about 50% of the smell tho) ...

I got a buddy that is a genius in electronics and electricity , he did my humidistat , tempstat and my grow room electrical board where I can plug up to 6000 watts (half on 110 volts and half on 220 volts) that is controlled by a 3.50$ timer ... And he charges me a 3rd at most of what it would cost at the grow shop .

I've always said grow shops where good for ferts and lights , but great for ideas on how to copy there systems with a DIY plan at a fraction of there cost .

So thx a million time for that tip , I've been roaming and lurking the net for a few months now in search of that kind of answer .

Not only you take care Whab , but stay safe , free and healthy and may your familly be bless for 7 generations with love , health , happiness and prosperity .

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:35 am
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Mothers Penis wrote:
I am, however, aware of a cool DIY that's just the ticket. Get, find, buy, beg, borrow, steal (joking on the stealing bit :winky:) a water cooler....the vertical kind you find in offices that you load the bottle on top of. Make sure it is the cooling type and not just a room-temperature water dispenser--normally the ones that heat water also cool it too. Then you take the cooling mechanism out of it and use that in your system...directly in your reservior. I've seen them for as little as $30usd on craigslist....sometimes free IF you have time and keep an eye out for them long enough.
This is brilliant ! The kind of answer I was hoping for : a do it yourself affordable yet efficient solution for a water chiller !! That is right up my lane , I always build myself the most that I can for my grow rooms , build my own Ebb&Flow table and RDWC system , also a carbon scrubber (that I need to work on , it did cut about 50% of the smell tho) ...

I got a buddy that is a genius in electronics and electricity , he did my humidistat , tempstat and my grow room electrical board where I can plug up to 6000 watts (half on 110 volts and half on 220 volts) that is controlled by a 3.50$ timer ... And he charges me a 3rd at most of what it would cost at the grow shop .

I've always said grow shops where good for ferts and lights , but great for ideas on how to copy there systems with a DIY plan at a fraction of there cost .

So thx a million time for that tip , I've been roaming and lurking the net for a few months now in search of that kind of answer .

Not only you take care Whab , but stay safe , free and healthy and may your familly be bless for 7 generations with love , health , happiness and prosperity .
It wasn't my idea, so I can't take credit. I saw it on another site that I can't remember now :p, but I did remember it.

I only know of it because I was going to go that route IF I needed a chiller as the $350usd and up is definitely a cost I wasn't keen on taking on.

It sounds like your buddy built one of those $800usd environment controllers....you got a great deal.

Others successful ideas is one way to get a great working idea for your own :winky:

Yeah, I just looked for a DIY thread and found one, but I'm not a member so I can't see the pix they're trying to show....but it seems and sounds to be exactly what we're talking about. Are you a member of Breedbay.co.uk?

Here's the link if you are...

http://www.breedbay.co.uk/forums/hydrop ... iller.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thank you, Mother...for all the kind words....I'm am truly pleased that I could help you.

:rollitiup:

Thanks again, and I reciprocate fully, Mother!,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:01 am
by roller24
The ghetto cooler was my thread.
http://www.planetganja.net/Forums/topic/298" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:42 pm
by Mothers Penis
Thx Roller , those pics will come in handy .

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 3:18 pm
by WhiteHotAfterburner
roller24 wrote:The ghetto cooler was my thread.
http://www.planetganja.net/Forums/topic/298" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hey there, roller :wave: I tried to respond Friday morning but my modem took a lightening strike :pullhair:

That's what we're talking about!

It looks like you setting that place (pg.net) to not come up in a search is working, cause I checked out at least two dozen search results and it didn't come up :winky:

The one I had seen they took the system apart and actually dropped the copper tubing that's wrapped around that "cooling chamber" straight into the reservoir though....so a little differently applied, but exactly the same concept.

How is yours working out for you, roller? And, how come you didn't drop the copper tubing wrap into your reservoir like the one I'm trying to explain?

Thanks for the information and the link, brother!

Take care, roller!,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Wed Aug 25, 2010 10:15 pm
by roller24
I didn't see that one. Just did the simplest setup that came to mind, although I like the concept of the coils in the rez. but I do get the double benefit of circulation.

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 11:08 pm
by Mothers Penis
So I'm at 12 days into flowering and I still cant get the ferts straight with Optimum Hydroponix A+B , it's either too low or too high ... fuck it , tomorrow I'm buying and switching for GH and Lucas formula ... ... Unless maybe Sun can come out and share his new and improved formula ?? ... I'll hold my breath while waiting ...

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:02 am
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Mothers Penis wrote:So I'm at 12 days into flowering and I still cant get the ferts straight with Optimum Hydroponix A+B , it's either too low or too high ... fuck it , tomorrow I'm buying and switching for GH and Lucas formula ... ... Unless maybe Sun can come out and share his new and improved formula ?? ... I'll hold my breath while waiting ...
IF your mix is too high, Mother, you just add more water to it to bring it down to where you want it. I used a one part nutrient and never had any problems like that, luckily.

How's it going with the nutrient temp issue? Were you able to find yourself a "water cooler"?

Take care, Mother!,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:56 am
by Mothers Penis
Hey Whab !

My nute mix is all fucked up , either they yellow up or they burn ... what is that nutrient you use in (R)DWC) ??

My water temp are now ok since weather gets cold night now ... I did found a "ghetto water chiller" for free but it wont be needed until next June .
I did get pythium and I'm experimenting Virkon to control it , so far so good , I do find Virkon to work better then plain H2o2 ...

Most likely this crop will end into hash making and compost ... cant wait to start up fresh with the Luca Formula . Oh well live and learn eh ?

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 1:27 am
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Mothers Penis wrote:Hey Whab !

My nute mix is all fucked up , either they yellow up or they burn ... what is that nutrient you use in (R)DWC) ??

My water temp are now ok since weather gets cold night now ... I did found a "ghetto water chiller" for free but it wont be needed until next June .
I did get pythium and I'm experimenting Virkon to control it , so far so good , I do find Virkon to work better then plain H2o2 ...

Most likely this crop will end into hash making and compost ... cant wait to start up fresh with the Luca Formula . Oh well live and learn eh ?
I used Supernatural Brand Powder Nutrients.

Here is a description offered at one site...
Supernatural Brand Powder Nutrients are a revolutionary one part nutrient system. They contain pharmaceutical grade vitamin B-1 (Thiamine Hydrochloride), and the highest quality source salts and minerals. These powders are actually more like dust in their consistency as they are turbo milled and chelated to homogenize and blend. They are fast dissolving in room temperature water and are treated with a dye so you know when there is nutrient present. These powders are pH Smart© and will buffer your water to the correct pH for maximum absorption of nutrient. The powders are buffered differently for aeroponics, hydroponic or soilless based growth systems. The soilless mix powders called "Terra" are buffered slightly less and have a higher salt and mineral content than the "Aqua" which are designed specifically for hydroponics. The "Aero" blends are made specifically for use in growing systems where there is no substrate or media as it contains ammonia free nitrogen. Use the correct product for your system.
And, just to be clear, I used it in WaterFarms and Ebb&Flo, but it shouldn't matter just as long as it's hydro.

I'm glad to hear your temps have moderated and am quite pleased you found a "free" "chiller"....that's great news....at least you'll be prepared when you need it next time :tup:

You're just 12 days into flower, so there is plenty of time remaining to save it. Hydro is quite forgiving and you'll notice results from any changes you make much quicker than in non-hydro....but there's nothing wrong with making hash out of it either :toker1:

Live and learn, indeed :winky:

:rollitiup:

Take care, Mother!,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:42 am
by roller24
I use the GH 3 part, always have. I found if you use a slightly weakened formula from the label instructions, the plants do very well.
If I use full strength, then the plants do well, but with a slight tip burn, which is not uncommon in Hydro.

Also, Ive had great success with Super Thrive to help revive the root damaged plants.

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:43 pm
by Sun
3 part at 1/3 strength
Pro Tekt at full
Cal-Mag at full
B'cuzz bloom or flower at full
PH up or down...not very important, got to figure that one out on your own, I would start off with no PH for veg and maybe 10-20 drops up for flower

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 7:40 pm
by Mothers Penis
Thx Sun , same formula for vegetative and blooming stage or is that only for blooming ??

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:59 am
by WhiteHotAfterburner
How's things going, Mother?

I can't help with those recipes, sorry....I would have piped in if I could have...

I hope all is well with the ladies and you!

:rollitiup:

:wave:,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 6:04 pm
by Mothers Penis
Thx for asking Whab .

Well this crop end up to be the worst I ever done , harvesting only 6 oz ... I did lots of mistakes on it , but I did learn from them .
1st mistake was to start a RDWC in summer with no water chiller ... I did manage to control the pythium a bit with Virkon , but it wasn't enough .
2nd mistake , and that was a real stupid one , was to take my water level measurements in one room , then move the system in another room without rechecking the water level .. So my 30L mark that was leaving a 2 inch air gap in the 1st room wined up to be 40L with no air gap in the 2nd room ...
And my 3rd mistake was trying to experiment with my old ferts. when I should of just go with a proven and tested formula (Lucas) .

So now I got 2 new clones in my small bubbler under fluros waiting to go in the RDWC under the HIDs , got the right ferts. with the right formula , done lots of reading (Ask Lucas) that helped demystify a few question I had , got my water level marks in check at 10L , 15L , 20L , 25L and 30L also the high temps are not a problem anymore , in fact we are suppose to have our 1st snow at Halloween .

Hopefully I will not fuck-up the next one ... The 6oz I've done is still very tasteful and potent , and more then enough to last me until the next harvest since I only smoke about 10-14 grams per month .

Keep it fun and safe .

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 7:06 pm
by WhiteHotAfterburner
Mothers Penis wrote:Thx for asking Whab .

Well this crop end up to be the worst I ever done , harvesting only 6 oz ... I did lots of mistakes on it , but I did learn from them .
1st mistake was to start a RDWC in summer with no water chiller ... I did manage to control the pythium a bit with Virkon , but it wasn't enough .
2nd mistake , and that was a real stupid one , was to take my water level measurements in one room , then move the system in another room without rechecking the water level .. So my 30L mark that was leaving a 2 inch air gap in the 1st room wined up to be 40L with no air gap in the 2nd room ...
And my 3rd mistake was trying to experiment with my old ferts. when I should of just go with a proven and tested formula (Lucas) .

So now I got 2 new clones in my small bubbler under fluros waiting to go in the RDWC under the HIDs , got the right ferts. with the right formula , done lots of reading (Ask Lucas) that helped demystify a few question I had , got my water level marks in check at 10L , 15L , 20L , 25L and 30L also the high temps are not a problem anymore , in fact we are suppose to have our 1st snow at Halloween .

Hopefully I will not fuck-up the next one ... The 6oz I've done is still very tasteful and potent , and more then enough to last me until the next harvest since I only smoke about 10-14 grams per month .

Keep it fun and safe .
With the issues you've described 6oz sounds like a success to me :smile: Visible marks for fluid levels is a great idea.

And, yay! Winter....I like Winter :smoke:

I'm sure you'll do better with what you've learned :toker1: I'm very glad you've got something plentiful and tasty to hold you over till your next harvest. I hope you'll let us in on it so maybe others can observe and learn

Would you mind posting your formula (Lucas)? If you feel comfortable with the formula I'd like to put it in the Charts and Schedules thread I made. It might help others.

All the best, Mother! :bonghitter:

Take care :wave:,
WHAB

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 3:55 pm
by Mothers Penis
Lucas Formula with General Hydroponics Flora Series :

The numbers indicates the amount of milliliters of Grow , Micro and Bloom to add to 1 gallon (US Liquid)
G-M-B
0-5-10 : under low intensity lights (fluros)
0-8-16 : under HIDs lights (HPS/MH)

There is no need for Grow since there's enough Nitrogen in the Micro .

I personally like to add Potassium Silicate to the formula:
DISCOVER THE BENEFITS OF SILICON NUTRITION IN YOUR PLANTS!

Potassium Silicate is an easy to use liquid that provides supplemental potassium (3.7%) and silicon (7.8%). The latest research proves that plants benefit in many important ways from supplemental soluble silicon. These benefits include greater tolerance of environmental stresses, such as cold, heat, drought, salinity, mineral toxicity or deficiency, improved growth rates and resistance to insects and fungi. Soluble silicon promotes natural fungal defense mechanisms in plants, significantly reducing and , in many cases eliminating entirely, the need to use fungicides. Silicon deposited in epidermal cell walls makes plants resistant to small sucking insects. The resulting increased mechanical strength in epidermal cell walls enhances leaf presentation a nd stem strength. Soluble silicon enhances metabolic functions and improves pollen fertility, fruit and flower count.

SILICON INCREASES RESISTANCE TO PATHOGENS
Silicon deposition in the epidermal cells of plants act as a barrier against penetration of invading fungi such as powdery mildew and Pythium. Following a fungal infection, greater deposits of silicon are found around the affected plant tissue showing th at silicon is selectively accumulated at the site. Silicon is also deposited in the cell walls of roots where it acts as a barrier against invasion of the stele by parasites and pathogens. Test conducted on cucumbers, melons and tomatoes determined that soluble silicon must be available to the plant during the period of infection by fungal spores. The silicon is deposited at the sites of infection to form stronger, harder cell walls to deter the fungus. Silicon also stimulates the production of polyph enolic compounds which form part of a plant’s natural defenses against fungal infection and insect attack. Silicon is rapidly bound in leaf tissue and will be deposited in a non-translocatable form within 24 hours. Therefore, a continuous source of solu ble silicon is very important to combat pathogens. This can be from constant feeding in hydroponics or from retention in the growing medium with soils or soilless mixes.

In some plants, foliar applications appear to lead to even lower rates of disease probably because deposits of silicon compounds on the leaf surface promote physical barriers to the infection process. Foliar sprays of soluble silicon have also been shown to be effective for control of aphids and other sucking insects on many plants. Epidermal cell walls containing silicon deposits act as a mechanical barrier to the styles and mandibles of sucking and biting insects. In addition to the silicate deposits in the leaves, the intracellular content of silicic acid also acts as an effective sap sucking inhibitor for many insects.

SILICON INCREASES METABOLIC RATES AND STRESS RESISTANCE
Research shows that silicon benefits plants in the following ways:

* improved resistance to wilt
* resistance to water stress (heat and drought)
* enhanced leaf presentation resulting in improved light interception
* enhanced reproductive growth
* increased tolerance of excessive phosphorus, manganese, sodium and aluminum concentrations, zinc deficiencies and cold temperatures

Silicon, deposited in the cell walls, forms a protective layer reducing transpiration through the outer cells. Silicon deposits in the cell walls of xylem vessels prevent compression of the vessels under conditions of high transpiration caused by drought or heat stress. Temperatures much above 90 degrees Fahrenheit cause plants to virtually cease their metabolic functions because water is lost through transpiration faster than it can be replaced via the plant’s root system. This results in harmful incr eases in intracellular mineral concentrations that inhibit plant functions. Increased levels of silicon in cell walls reduce transpiration loss caused by higher temperatures thus allowing continued metabolic functions at higher temperatures. Plants wilt less, resist sunburn and are generally more tolerant of heat stresses. Cuttings and plugs are more tolerant of the stresses encountered during root formation and potting up as a result of decreased transpiration.

Silicon has also been shown to result in higher concentrations of chlorophyll per unit area of leaf tissue. This means that a plant is able to tolerate both lower and higher light levels by using more of the available light. Moreover, supplemental level s of soluble silicon have been shown to produce higher concentrations of the enzyme RUBP carboxylase in leaf tissue. This exzyme regulates the metabolism of carbon dioxide and enables the plant to make more efficient use of available levels of CO2.

Silicon deficiencies often are indicated by malformation of young leaves and a failure of pollination and fruit formation in many cases. Plants with silicon added to the nutrient formula also show a decrease in leaf and flower senescence. The shelf life of cut flowers, specialty pot crops and plugs is also extended. Leaves are thicker and darker green compared to those grown without soluble silicon.
http://www.solarhydroponics.com/tips/tips0499.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:24 pm
by Sun
Thats why I use Pro Tekt....What about your Cal-Mag-Iron...?

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:01 pm
by Mothers Penis
The cal-mag-iron are in the FloraMicro (Cal:5% , Mag:0.050% , Iron:0.100%) , you thing that's not enough ?

The Potassium Silicate I bought is 100% pure , you only need 5ml per 20 L and it only cost 25$ for 1L . The stuff is so thick you need to really pull to fill the syringe . Is the Pro Tekt also pure or do they add something else then Potassium Silicate ? When I read that you needed to add 2ml per 1L of the Advance Nutrients Rhino Skin Potassium Silicate I thought it was a rip off , I dont even know how much AN sells there Rhino Skin for , but like most there product I'm pretty sure it's expensive .

Also have you ever tried Potassium Silicate in foliar spray while in vegetative stage ? What's your take on it ??

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:02 am
by Sun
I thought for Lucas you added epsom salt for Cal and Mag...?

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 2:03 am
by Mothers Penis
Doesn't seem so ... There's lots of misinformation about Lucas Formula on the net . The 1st one that is copied and paste on most site and that got me confused at first is that there's a dosage for veg and another one for bloom , when in fact the dosages are different for weaker lights/HIDs .

That is why I recommend you read the Ask Lucas thread , it's a good read with interesting Q&A from the man himself.

http://www.cannabis-world.org/cw/showthread.php?t=892" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Check out post number 7 :
... ...the TDS of the additives alone is not enough to tell you what the nutrient value of the additives is. For example, both Sweet and Cal Mag contain epsom salts, which provides Magnesium (Mg). Why are you using those? Flora Nova, unlike Bottanicare nutrients like PBP, is rich in Mg without need for adding more epsom salt.

And btw, too much epsom salt will kill your plants.... .... ..
Post number 4 :
... ... I dont have a weaker formula for veg.. The only time I use weaker nutes is under fluorescent lights. ... ...

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 5:54 am
by A Bloke Down The Pub
Sun wrote:I thought for Lucas you added epsom salt for Cal and Mag...?
It'll add mag, but no cal.

Unless your water is very soft, there's probably enough calcium in it to make adding more unnecessary.

RDWC PPM helps plz

Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 9:06 pm
by BAMF
up to 600 ppm in veg and I would say no more than 900 ppm in bloom,,, Remember... less is more

I know there wasnt alot of fancy chart pics or mumbo jumbo of this and that but I hope this helps,,,