myPlanetGanja.com

So here's a reminder about my set up.

I run 2 hempy closets, a 250 and a 400 watter. Both in closets with charcoal filters. I make Hempy Tubs that are 60 liters big but I only fill them with about 40 liters. Been using the same recycled and sterilized perlite for over a year now and the yield keeps getting better. My method is super K.I.S.S. just mix the GH nutes according to direction. I don't bother with pH or ppms.


Here was my last chop about a week ago. Turned out to be 273 grams off of 6 plants on a 60 (64?) grow clone to harvest.

And here is what is going on now

Day 3 veg 400 watts

Just 6 Chronics rooted in my aero-cloner and plugged in. Normally I veg for about 12 days and cut around 50 with this strain.

Day 17 flower 250 watts

And here is the smaller one. Oh man you guys should have seen people flip out at the site I was on when I had the nerve to tell them that you can actually grow at full strength GH nutes. Some soil grower mod over there has all the newbies convinced that half strength is too much. Pissed them totally off when I showed plants grown at full strength. They tried to rationalize it away by saying that the GH nutes in Europe are stronger. Pissed them off even more when I explained that they are actually the same nutes, just labeled differently according to the laws.


So that's about it. This thread is just to show a simple grow and help me remember which day it is.

This is what I have planned for the 250 watter after this cycle. These are some Jackie-O mothers that I made in hempy. I don't plan on keeping these that long but I think I'll make a proper hempy mother bucket, the way I see it, to keep a mother like this I would really need to flush it once every few months so I'm thinking of making a drain hole on the bottoms that can be plugged up.

So a little about this strain.

was made by a guy called Nebu and it's called Jackie-O (Jack Flash X Cali-O) and it certainly has a strong citrus smell growing and if you vape it, the citrus is totally there. If you smoke it though more of the skunk flavor comes out. Nice dense buds and the smoke just gets really good after about a month cure.

Now I don't know if this is true or not, but Jack Herer is supposed to be Super Silver Haze more or less, so imagine that with more skunk and you get an idea.

So far I've only grown out 3 small test plants and I'm thinking of sogging them.

It was very odd. Just a lot of people who were saying stuff like it was matter of fact which didn't make sense to me at all. Like people saying the number one hydro newbie mistake was overfeeding their plants. I always thought the number one mistake was stuff like root rot or something. Guess I've just missed all these threads with way over feed hydro plants.

Day 10 veg 400 watter

I really shocked the hell out of these when I put them in but they are coming around. For the first week or so I just give each plant about 500cc of the grow formula at their base every few days. I think their roots have hit the bottom on the box so they should start to explode in the next few days.


Jackie-O Mothers

My friend is making some Jackie-Os in soil but after seeing how these look he's considering doing hydro mothers. These are really easy to care for, regular grow formula once a week under 100 watts of cfls.

And here we have a Bubba Ghaze and Silver Haze. These were late for my last cloning run in the aero-cloner so I thought I would try cloning them in mini-hempy cups. Just stuck the cuts in rooting powder and stuck them in. Not really expecting them to live, but it would be cool if they made it, if not I'm getting more cuts to put in my aero-cloner next round.

Day 24 flower 250 watts

You can see that I got some small plants on the right. Even though I've been getting some really good results yield wise with these plants recently, there's something that's different about them.

When I feed them I try to make sure that I get plenty of run-off and I hear that's how soil growers do it as well. To aim for about 30% run-off to make sure things are fresh.

I use a kerosene fuel pump that is battery operated to feed my plants that looks like this. I put it at the base of each plant for about 5 seconds and then try to cover the surface area evenly so that all the medium gets wet.

Took a look at the 400 watt closet today and they are a few days away from being ready to flip so I'm not going to feed them anymore grow formula. The only draw back with hempy is that the flip timing. You don't want to give them a feeding of grow right before you flip, much better to get bloom nutes or transition nutes in. So it looks like I'll be ready to flip around 19 days instead of my normal 14 and that's because of the shock I gave them at the beginning.

I have another concern with these Chronics I'm growing and reducing finger numbers on their leafs. I'm getting a lot of fans with 3 fingers instead of 5 but my yield has actually been going up so I don't know what to make of it. A few cycles ago I took cuts during flower and I thought it might be a reveg problem but it's obviously not that. I've had this plant for about 2 years now so I might need to pop a new Chronic seed or two.

Edit: I forgot to mention that those little cuts rooted in the tiny hemp cups. If you gave them a good environment as far as heat and light I bet they would root a lot faster. I just stick them in the back because it was just a test and it took a few weeks.

Day 32 flower 250 watt

Things are chugging along in this closet. I got 2 plants that are pretty small on the right there but not going to sweat it. There is some tip burn on some leafs so I just made sure to get plenty of run-off and keep it at full strength. In a few days I'm going to flip the 400 and take cuts for this closet for the next round which will mostly be Jackie-O and a few Chronics stuck in the side to get cuts from. I really need more space to keep a few more mothers but that's somewhere down the line.

Your grows always amaze me. You make it look so easy

hort

I think it was just the temps that were holding you back but I think you already know that. What an odd winter it was.

Yes they are. I bet your plants aren't that cute.

Day 21 veg 250 watts

This is how they look before I take the lower nodes for clones

and after the trim. Normally I'd just flip them at this point but I thought I'd give them another day since I'm not in a rush

I've loaded up my cloner which is filled with the clone formula on the back of my GH nutes. I don't bother to check my pH when I clone but I can tell you it's somewhere around 6.5. I used to do everything from 5.5~6.0 but honestly I've never seen much of a difference over the years so now I don't bother.

Most of the cuts are Jackie-Os. The next round in the 250 will be about 10 jackies and a few chronics on the site just to veg. I'm also getting some feminished Jackie pollen from a friend and I'm going to hit a few branches of a Jackie and some of the Chronics to get some S1s.

JapanFreak wrote:Day 21 veg 250 watts

This is how they look before I take the lower nodes for clones

and after the trim. Normally I'd just flip them at this point but I thought I'd give them another day since I'm not in a rush

I've loaded up my cloner which is filled with the clone formula on the back of my GH nutes. I don't bother to check my pH when I clone but I can tell you it's somewhere around 6.5. I used to do everything from 5.5~6.0 but honestly I've never seen much of a difference over the years so now I don't bother.

Most of the cuts are Jackie-Os. The next round in the 250 will be about 10 jackies and a few chronics on the site just to veg. I'm also getting some feminished Jackie pollen from a friend and I'm going to hit a few branches of a Jackie and some of the Chronics to get some S1s.

looks like you just foli..d the plants in the middle picture.............

Yeah I spray them with water every day up to a few weeks into flower. The water helps wash off dust that can collect and reduce photosynthesis, kind of like cleaning your bulb of dust.

I also sometimes use left-over nutrient mixed for growth and water it down to 30% strength with a drop of detergent as a wetting agent and foliar feed them during veg.

Why do you do the foliar feeding......?

nobodyknew wrote:Why do you do the foliar feeding......?

Plants eat better through their leafs, it's also a quick way to get nutes to them if they seem stressed.

FullySikMate wrote:

I've loaded up my cloner which is filled with the clone formula on the back of my GH nutes. I don't bother to check my pH when I clone but I can tell you it's somewhere around 6.5. I used to do everything from 5.5~6.0 but honestly I've never seen much of a difference over the years so now I don't bother

Doesn't ph only make a difference for the plant to suck up nutrients

I cant imagine cuts being rooted needing any nutrient at all thus ph wouldnt really matter

i don't add till fully rooted.

There's a grower at TCC called Dycans who has done literally thousands and thousands of cuts in aero-cloners and he claims that cuts actually root faster with a very low pH of about 5.3 for the first few days. So I think pH just matter a wee bit but not enough for me to worry about it. The reason I use the clone formula on the bottle is because I've always had good success with it, but in the past I've cloned with straight water with no problems.

JapanFreak wrote:Plants eat better through their leafs, it's also a quick way to get nutes to them if they seem stressed.

Eat better through their leaves?
Ain't necessarily so:
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20ch ... eeding.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

A Bloke Down The Pub wrote:

JapanFreak wrote:Plants eat better through their leafs, it's also a quick way to get nutes to them if they seem stressed.

Eat better through their leaves?
Ain't necessarily so:
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20ch ... eeding.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Well I think it's cute that you asked a question just to setup the above post. That's the kind of thing that really makes growing threads annoying if you ask me, like why the fuck can't you just link it since you obviously were waiting for it? Whatever dude.

JapanFreak wrote:Well I think it's cute that you asked a question just to setup the above post. .... like why the fuck can't you just link it since you obviously were waiting for it? Whatever dude.

???
WTF are you talking about?
I just linked to some information about the topic in hand!

Would you prefer I deleted the post? I'm quite happy to do so if you feel it's inappropriate.

FullySikMate wrote:depends what you are feeding them

Foliar feeding your plants with selected minerals, carbohydrates, amino-acids and phyto-nutrients optimizes the Calvin Cycle,

Amino Acids and Complex Carbohydrates can help your plants achieve amazing things – but only if they get inside the leaves!

plants can’t physically take up much of the Complex Carbohydrates and Amino Acids through their roots - imagine that! It is the molecular size that is too big for effective absorption through the roots whereas, the leaves can accept the larger molecules much easier! If Carbohydrates and Amino Acids cannot get to the leaves from the roots – they are completely worthless! The only effective way to get Amino Acids and Complex Carbohydrates to the leaves - is through the leaves

Now that is a self write up from DM

However I have not used there liquid light spray for a couple of months now and it shows

Using that particular foliar spray twice a week till week 4 flower increases yields by 25 to 30% imo


I really should get out to the shop and get some more

Dutch Masters site provides which authorities that would back up their claims....I'm going to go with UB on that one, canna-nutes industry snake oil *hype*.

LOL, now why am I not surprised U R supposed to buy another expensive production to use with "Gold Saturator", for the most 'benefits' <to remove you of more of your money...go for it FSM, the more DM products and other canna-nutes they can sell you, the better their business does...keeping the economy going, doin your part?

I wonder if they know there is a world wide recession going on? Meebe they need a new 'econo' line.... "Bronze Saturator" --- 1/2 the cost of our super premium GOLD SATURATOR, now in econo size 10L containers
^ "the next level", "state of the art", "ground breaking" < other useless BS hype descriptors.

# DO NOT use FOLITECH or MAX-FX if you are using LIQUID LIGHT because LIQUID LIGHT is the next level of technology and contains all the ingredients of FOLITECH and MAX-FX with new ground breaking discoveries that makes LIQUID LIGHT the most advanced foliar spray ever produced - guaranteed!

# Spray half strength LIQUID LIGHT on very young plants. It is preferable to spray Dutch Master A.P.S on cuttings (undiluted with 60 ml / 2 oz of GOLD SATURATOR) whilst establishing an initial root system.

Generally speaking...as we are relating to MJ. Of course there a small subset of carnivorous plants... Venus Flytrap, that do 'eat' with their leaves :D

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venus_Flytrap" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I only asked about the foliar feeding cos I always saw it as detrimental in the sense that if you are foliar feeding then why grow roots...
In the clone beginning stage when there are no roots you definitely want to encourage roots and I just see foliar feeding as counterproductive....
Not that it matters much in either case - I was just curious
Personally I just put them in the rockwool cube - then a 6 inch net pot with hydroton - slam them on the e/f table under the 1K lamp and let it rip
Might lose two out of twenty and might not
Either way - two weeks later I'm growing pot......
As you were.....

A Bloke Down The Pub wrote:

JapanFreak wrote:Well I think it's cute that you asked a question just to setup the above post. .... like why the fuck can't you just link it since you obviously were waiting for it? Whatever dude.

???
WTF are you talking about?
I just linked to some information about the topic in hand!

Would you prefer I deleted the post? I'm quite happy to do so if you feel it's inappropriate.

No man, I'd prefer that if you wanted to tell me about it you'd do it in the first post instead of the style you choose. Like "Hey I heard that foliar feeding is a myth, you might want to check out this article." I know it's radical, to just say what you think instead of asking a question to set up another post. I mean did you expect me to say, "I foliar feed because it makes them look sexy!" Get my point? I don't like the dishonesty in your question.

PGs GossipGrrl™ wrote: btw, plants don't "eat"...just like they don't "see" light.

And spider mites aren't really spiders, and peanuts aren't really nuts. Let's just all pretend like we know it eh?

nobodyknew wrote:I only asked about the foliar feeding cos I always saw it as detrimental in the sense that if you are foliar feeding then why grow roots...
In the clone beginning stage when there are no roots you definitely want to encourage roots and I just see foliar feeding as counterproductive....
Not that it matters much in either case - I was just curious
Personally I just put them in the rockwool cube - then a 6 inch net pot with hydroton - slam them on the e/f table under the 1K lamp and let it rip
Might lose two out of twenty and might not
Either way - two weeks later I'm growing pot......
As you were.....

Wow that's amazing, start a thread on it. This is a grow log, not a thread about debating foliar feeding. Get my point?

JapanFreak wrote:Yeah I spray them with water every day up to a few weeks into flower. The water helps wash off dust that can collect and reduce photosynthesis, kind of like cleaning your bulb of dust.

I also sometimes use left-over nutrient mixed for growth and water it down to 30% strength with a drop of detergent as a wetting agent and foliar feed them during veg.

ever taken a wet sponge with nut.watered down and wiped off the dust. of coarse in veg only

bluebud wrote: ever taken a wet sponge with nut.watered down and wiped off the dust. of coarse in veg only

I've never done that. Sounds like a pita. I'm actually allergic to my plants though, if I were to reach in and do that I'm pull my arm out with hives all over.

FullySikMate wrote:depends what you are feeding them

Foliar feeding your plants with selected minerals, carbohydrates, amino-acids and phyto-nutrients optimizes the Calvin Cycle,

Amino Acids and Complex Carbohydrates can help your plants achieve amazing things – but only if they get inside the leaves!

plants can’t physically take up much of the Complex Carbohydrates and Amino Acids through their roots - imagine that! It is the molecular size that is too big for effective absorption through the roots whereas, the leaves can accept the larger molecules much easier! If Carbohydrates and Amino Acids cannot get to the leaves from the roots – they are completely worthless! The only effective way to get Amino Acids and Complex Carbohydrates to the leaves - is through the leaves

Now that is a self write up from DM

However I have not used there liquid light spray for a couple of months now and it shows

Using that particular foliar spray twice a week till week 4 flower increases yields by 25 to 30% imo


I really should get out to the shop and get some more

I use the DM Gold, can't wait to try the foli...........gold................

FullySikMate wrote:

I've loaded up my cloner which is filled with the clone formula on the back of my GH nutes. I don't bother to check my pH when I clone but I can tell you it's somewhere around 6.5. I used to do everything from 5.5~6.0 but honestly I've never seen much of a difference over the years so now I don't bother

Doesn't ph only make a difference for the plant to suck up nutrients

I cant imagine cuts being rooted needing any nutrient at all thus ph wouldnt really matter

i don't add till fully rooted.

Well I'm no botanist , but I once put cuttings in untreated rockwool , has you know rockwool got a ph of 9 and should be submerges in a water solution of 5 ph for 24 hours so it end up with a neutral ph (7) .

In 9 ph rockwools , most cuttings yellowed and die before rooting and the few that made it where weak .

And yes cuts do need rooting nutrients , I use SuperVit combine with Root Complex from Hesi + rooting gel ... But then again some genetics roots faster then others , I remember my TimeWarp cuttings with root coming out of the cubes after only 5 days in plain water ... The Bob Marleys Best I grow now , roots pops out of the Oasis at 9-12 days using all the nutes with a 99% success ... If I use plain water it takes 19-22 days with 70% success .

Now why the plants react that way , I have no idea ... Like I said I'm no botanist , but if someone could say I would love to know .

Nice and clean grow unit JF , keep up the good work .

Thanks mp.

Day 40 flower 250 watts

Just over a week since I last watered them and I could have gone a little longer going by how little they took but I wanted to get some fresh nutes in anyway. Just under 2 weeks left on these. Once I cut them I dry them in the same place normally because I already got a charcoal filter in there but I think my clones are going to be ready before that this time.

So my brother called me last night and asked how much miracle grow he should use in his hydro....LOL. I've never had a hydro or Aero grow, just plain old dirt, so I have no clue what to tell him. These plants are gorgeous JF and this thread is very informative. I wish I could grow like this in a closet. Hot damn!!

Is there a HYDRO 101 thread anywhere that could explain all about the nute requirements and process? I really admire people who can grow like this. It's so much more sexy than dirt IMHO

and those buds up there at the top are very BIG and THICK and LONG I like them alot and I would like to touch them and feel them and possibly abuse them as well:)..just saying hehe

@VBG...Hey there you!Still a 'dirty' girl I see A woman after me own heart.
Big thick & long...just how I like 'em! Buds that is....git yer minds outta the gutter.

Virginbudgrower wrote: Is there a HYDRO 101 thread anywhere that could explain all about the nute requirements and process?

I've seen some threads like that at other places, maybe I'll write one for here. It really is easy and most of the time you can just follow the directions on the bottles for nutes.

Hydro has always struck me as the grower's equivalent of "man work"...Pumps and gauges and shit. I'd fuck it up royally if I ever tried it.

Hempy feels like growing in soil Smotty. No pumps or timers. You just feed/water them about once a week. But yeah the other hydro is really erector sets for big boys.

JapanFreak wrote:Hempy feels like growing in soil Smotty. No pumps or timers. You just feed/water them about once a week. But yeah the other hydro is really erector sets for big boys.

erectors Please explain: )

Seriously though, it seems much cleaner! I like pumps and timers and meters and stuff like that I hate sweeping up dirt though!

^^ yep hydro is much cleaner and a lot less work , you only need to check the ph and ppm of one thing , that is your water reservoir and then the pump and timer takes care of the feeding on its own ... Also a lot less work between crops with a lot less waste ; no more getting rid of the old soil and filling buckets with new soil .
Another of the many advantages is much lower humidity in the grow room with hydro .

Hydro with recyclable medium is one of the safest ways to grow in a city.

Day 6 flower 400 watter

Not much happening yet, just wanted to show my support screen. Perlite gives almost no support if you're putting clones directly into it. This closet get's pretty packed near harvest so I don't really need it for this garden but my first hempy grow I ended up having to tie shit up.

I just looked in the cloner and the Jackie-O cuts are ready to transplant, the chronics are just starting to root. Unfortunately I got another week on the chronics till I cut them. looks like I'll be drying the harvest in my make-shift dryer instead of the closet.

Mothers Penis wrote:^^ yep hydro is much cleaner and a lot less work , you only need to check the ph and ppm of one thing , that is your water reservoir and then the pump and timer takes care of the feeding on its own ... Also a lot less work between crops with a lot less waste ; no more getting rid of the old soil and filling buckets with new soil .
Another of the many advantages is much lower humidity in the grow room with hydro .

While I don't doubt the validity of lower humidity common sense makes me question it.How can it be lower with all them buckets and resevoirs in there with them?
Obviously I am a soiler with zero experiance growing in anything else.

Soil is like a big water sponge with light/heat hitting them all the time creating evaporation ... In hydro the medium is mostly here to hold roots and holds very little water , so basically water is more isolated from light/heat in hydro then in soil .

This should not surprise anyone but I can't quite get my mind around that for some reason.

Water is going to evaporate no matter what but I think that he is saying that it evaporates easier from the exposed soil then water which is normally covered up in a rez.

>>>In hydro the medium is mostly here to hold roots and holds very little water , so basically water is more isolated from light/heat in hydro then in soil .


That would make it a substrate, not a medium

Trees wrote:>>>In hydro the medium is mostly here to hold roots and holds very little water , so basically water is more isolated from light/heat in hydro then in soil .


That would make it a substrate, not a medium

>>>That would make it a substrate, not a medium

Well Juice, we're talking semantics then which is besides the point here; could it also be both a substrate & medium...examples?

JapanFreak wrote:Water is going to evaporate no matter what but I think that he is saying that it evaporates easier from the exposed soil then water which is normally covered up in a rez.

..oh most likely.

However in ur example of perlite, it holds water (otherwise ur plants would die unless water is constantly being pumped over the roots)...*and* is exposed to heat & light. Ergo, u will get evaporation in same manner as soil, probably fairly close % wise...anyone got plenty of time on their hands to do a side by side comparison in 2 cabs....JF?

Juice?

If it's there to to hold roots and holds very little nutriant solution, it's a substrate.

I understood the werds,jesuschrist I aint totally tarded.....................yet.
Just seems to me the medium/substrate has to maintain a certain level of saturation or else the plants will die.
I don't water till runoff in soil,so seemingly the levels of moisture will be approximately the same.
Given the leaf cover and the hassle of even seeing the damn dirt to water I merely question whether the humidity levels are any diff at all.

A substrate doesn't need to have any saturation, it can be 100% inert

PGs GossipGrrl™ wrote: However in ur example of perlite u will get evaporation in same manner as soil, probably fairly close % wise

I would think so, but I think he was talking about hydro with rezes type systems.

arb wrote: ,jesuschrist I aint totally tarded.....................yet

Totally? no.

uhm...........are you saying plants will grow in a totally dry medium/substrate?

ok you just went full retard. Say wha???

JapanFreak wrote:

arb wrote: ,jesuschrist I aint totally tarded.....................yet

Totally? no.

I'm werking on it as fast as I can.

lol, right behind ya.

Trees wrote:A substrate doesn't need to have any saturation, it can be 100% inert

Did I misunderstand this post?
I took it as him saying it does not need to retain any moisture.

arb wrote:uhm...........are you saying plants will grow in a totally dry medium/substrate?

The substrate can be totally dry and inert, not the medium.

the substance that is acted upon by an enzyme or ferment
a surface on which an organism grows or is attached; "the gardener talked about the proper substrate for acid-loving plants"
any stratum or layer lying underneath another

uhm.............can you explain what yer saying cuz I aint getting it.Plants need moisture to live.

Plants need moisture to live.

Sure do, just not from the substrate.

Are we having a semantics thing here,tomato tomatoe potato potatoe?

A substrate is a substrate, a medium is a medium...no semantics here

yer so silly,kindly define substrate and medium so I understand the context in which you type.

Is my name Noah..?

Do you want it to be?

Omfg ! .. Ok , 1st of all JF I'm sorry for the Hijack , it was not planed .

2nd ...Never mind medium , substrate ; lets call it the stuff that holds your roots and stalk ... Some of that stuff is dense and retain a shit load of water , like soil ... Some of that other stuff is light and dont retain much water like clay pellets , perlite (about 20 % water retaining ) ... So in hydro most of the water falls down in the bucket ... in hempy it seems you should keep a good 2 inches of water a the bottom of the bucket in all time ... in ebb & flow you need to set your pump to water many times a day to keep your root wet ... In Aeroponic root are dangling in air saturated with mist but it's still in tubes isolated from the light and heat ... And in soil you got those open buckets saturated with water just begging to evaporate .

PGGG , no need for a side to side , I grew for about 10 years indoors in ProMixBX with a average humidity of 70% ... since I switch to ebb & flow 10 years ago , using the same amount of HIDs my humidity drop to 30% , shit I even bought a humidifier to raise it to 40% .

Arb , what hold down the roots and stalk dont need to retain water has long has the roots are kept wet/humid ... also nutrients are in the water , not in what is holding down the plants ... And now you know the secret to The Hanging Gardens of Babylon .

Thanks mp,a simple answer was what I was looking for.

arb wrote:Thanks mp,a simple answer was what I was looking for.

always looking for the simple answer, rn't u sickpuppy? ...how bout juicy's Mex, DDT cantaloupe? ...and he still doesn't know what the best white flesh nectarine is...sad.

Here, lemme me split this from the Hempy thread as it's more properly a digression split (ya know, Hax has problems w/being a wordsmith liberal version of WFBuckley, lol):

Substrates even UB can learn about

(back in a 2nd, w/link)

Day 48 flower 250

I'm going to take these on Friday. Should take me about 5 hours to trim, clean, sterilize the perlite and get the next round in there. Even though the yield and high has been good there is something I don't feel is right about these chronics and I think it has to do with taking clones during flower a few cycles back. I'm happy to be able to skip a round and make some Chronic mothers and see if I can't get it back to better health.

Day 12 flower 400 watts

Just so I can remember where I am in the grow. Pretty even canopy this time it looks like. One in the back left is a bit small though.

Day 1 Veg 250 watts

I cut the chronics this morning and got the new plants in. There are 8 Jackie-O's in the box and 2 on the sides there. I was going to put 10 in at first but decided 8 would be safer. Last time I grew these with this light there wasn't much side branching once flower started so hopefully I should just get a box of tops. I don't think they will yield as good as the chronic but hopefully I can get 130+ out of it.

It's time to buy a new bulb too. This one must be at least 4? years old.

I'm going to make 2 chronic mothers and there is also a Silver Haze male and a Bubba*Ghaze in there. I've kept my extra clones for a few days just in case. I've never needed them but who knows what could happen.

Day 16 Flower 400 watts

I feed them today with about 15 liters of bloom formula and got about 3 liters of run-off. Always make sure to get run-off or the strength can get too strong inside. It's been 10 days since giving them any water or food but as you can see they look fine, but they were thirsty. How often you feed them really depends on how much the plants are eating and how much water evaporates from the medium but about once a week works for my setup.

I also got the final weight on the 250 watter. I pulled 150grams out of it for a simplified 0.6 gpw. I'm planning on using the old bulb to veg with and picking up a new one to flower.

My hempy 400 is at day 17 today so 1 day older than yours, Jf. As you can see it is finally on track. To the left of the rack are one Chronic and one GHazeBubba in soil.

hort

What a little difference some heat makes eh? That looks so much better than the last round. For next winter we're going to have to think of someway to hook up that heat mat to a thermostat.

Thanks a lot for all your help!

hort

Hey JF nice thread and pics buddy. Well as you know I am doing my first Hempy Bucket so this thread will be very useful to me. At the moment I have 4 grow tents going so have to wait until April before I can get a big Hempy going. I only have 3 plants doing Hempy and 1 I started 3 days ago and 2 tonight. I am growing a 60 Day Wonder (experimental grow) and then I have 2 Master Kush now.

I have a few seeds to choose from and some nice strains too for my big Hempy Grow when the Master Kush comes down in 2 weeks time, can't wait I'm also purchasing a new tent soon, a DR 240 (2.4 x 2.4 x 2.0) this tent I am going to hang 3 x 250watt CFL's in and this will be a Hempy Tent ONLY!!

Strains I will grow using Hempy are (Super Lemon Haze - White Widow x Big Bud - White Russain - White Widow - Big Buddha Bubble Cheese - Rock Lock - Sharks Breath) I have more but these will all go into Hempy very soon if I get good results with the 60 Day Wonder and 2 Master Kush grows.

Thanks JF for this thread, I needed something like this to help me

Cool, glad it helped. I would suggest that you pop the seeds one or two strains at a time because it can get a bit overwhelming starting with so many, but people do make it work.

JapanFreak wrote:What a little difference some heat makes eh? That looks so much better than the last round. For next winter we're going to have to think of someway to hook up that heat mat to a thermostat.

I once controlled the heat from a mat by using one of those timers that you can turn on/off every 15 minute segment. Having it cycle on and off for varying lengths of time gave some control and a glass of water with a thermometer in it gave me a visual on the average results of the adjustments.

JapanFreak wrote:What a little difference some heat makes eh? That looks so much better than the last round. For next winter we're going to have to think of someway to hook up that heat mat to a thermostat.

You can get heat mat thermostats from reptile shops.

Sorry there hasn't been an update in a while, been kind of busy this week. My vacation from a vacation will be over on Monday and I'll be able to get back to my usual slow place and update some shit. The plants look great. Sometimes it's easy to forget how fast they grow when you see them everyday. The Jackie-O's are ready to flip so I need to set up the cloner. I also need to transplant all the moms that I'm making into bigger containers. Everything looks good. The bubba-ghaze is going to be ready for cloning in a few more weeks along with the others.

on the heat mats... I just saw an advertisement on tv the other day that was for pet pads.
they came in various sizes and maintained an ambient heat of a warm body.
I immediately thought about getting the cat sized one for my propagation area.

Make sure that cat-mat dont heat up too much for your clones ... I came across lots of damping off problems using heat mats for propagation , so much so that I started using NoDamp ( http://www.plant-prod.ca/product_e.php? ... ategory=81" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ) before I realized I needed to get rid of the heat-mat ... maybe test the heat-mat like Marabou Stork did 1st .

JapanFreak wrote:... Sometimes it's easy to forget how fast they grow when you see them everyday...

After all those years of growing , this is what gets me the most exited ... Some time I force myself not to check them for a few days just for that thrill .

FullySikMate wrote:Whats wrong with the thermostat controlled propagation heat mats you can buy online from any hydro or garden store?

Price ? ... I dont know now , but back then hydro shop used to sell those heat-mat with no thermostat controller for 70$Can , and it only covered 1 propagation tray.

I use my old water-bed heat-mat with controller for my ebb&flow 100 L res. , and an electric cover blanket with controller under a plastic screen in my nursery.. both "heat-mats" are used only in case of very cold winter canadian nights .

Day 19 Veg/Flip 250 watts Jackie-O

I thinned these out for the flip. They look pretty good to me but boy did they give me a rash with all the foliage they had.

Day 31 flower 400 watts Chronic

These have about 2 weeks left on them. Hopefully my chronic mothers will be able to give me at least 10 cuts to choose from for the next round.

Even though I didn't update the thread last week I did feed/water both gardens once last week and today. Things are looking good all around.

arb wrote:
While I don't doubt the validity of lower humidity common sense makes me question it.How can it be lower with all them buckets and resevoirs in there with them?
Obviously I am a soiler with zero experiance growing in anything else.

most people use air conditioning