NameTaken's Second Grow.

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Yellowing of Leaves Due to Nutrient Deficiency or Fungus?

Post by A Bloke Down The Pub »

NameTaken wrote:I've only watered once since last week. Going maybe 4-5 days between waterings. Maybe that's not enough? I'll wait until the pots are completely dry.
Good plan. You'll be surprised at how little water they actually need.
Will the mold go away on its own if I stop watering so much?
Yes, it should. I wouldn't try to treat it in any other way... that would probably cause more problems than it fixes.
As long as it doesn't appear to be attacking the plants (I don't think the brown spots have anything to do with it), I wouldn't worry about it too much.

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Yellowing of Leaves Due to Nutrient Deficiency or Fungus?

Post by bluebud »

I think your on the right track with the watering. However those brown patches could be a PH problem also. Around the brown area of the leaves are there any holes in the leaves???????Could be a touch of septoria(redish-brown fungi).Especially if it is on just the lower part of the plant. I'm sure you'll be OK...... :bong:
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Yellowing of Leaves Due to Nutrient Deficiency or Fungus?

Post by NameTaken »

Thanks Bloke! If I could give Karma, you'd get some. Username didn't transfer over from the old PG. (Whatever happened to it?) :scared:

Bluebud, There are no holes in the leaf. Would holes be caused by fungus?


Also, Fimming? Should I do it? These guys are in their third week of veg. from clone

Thanks All!
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Post by roller24 »

Yes I would say it is time for some cropping for sure.
And about florescent lighting.
on the bulbs, be sure to find a bulb with the highest color number
Dr.Chronic wrote: You might see a lot of different labels when shopping at the store for CFLs. Labels including Soft White, Warm White, Cool White, Bright White, Halogen White, Daylight White, Full Spectrum. And also labels like 2700K, 3000K, 3500K, 4000K, 5000K, 6400K, and 6500K. These are all the color temperature of the light you are using. This is a measure of how warm or cool the light given off by a lamp appears, with warmer colors having a yellowish tinge and cooler colors being tinged with blue. What confuses some people is that the warmer a color is, the colder its color temperature is. (ex. Warm White = 2700K). Bulbs ranging in the 2700K-3000K spectrum are usually labeled Warm White or Soft White, bulbs ranging in the 3500K 4000K spectrum are bright white or cool white, 5000K is labeled Full Spectrum, and finally 6400K 6500K is labeled Daylight. You can grow an entire crop with CFLs if you chose the right spectrum of bulbs. For Vegetation you will want to use 6500K or 5000K, and when you flower you will want to switch to 2700K or 3000K . The reason being, throughout the year the plants outside receive more 6500K light because the days in summer are long and hot and as Autumn/Winter gets closer the day gets shorter, and gradually receives less 6500K light and more 2700K light as the plant flowers. Do what you can to avoid bulbs within that 3500K 4000K because they emit very little light that Is useful to your plant.

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Post by roller24 »

Also the brown bottom leaves could be damage from the overwatering event, as mine did similiar to yours after I had a heavy soil mix.
PH could be a factor as Blue pointed out.
Home depot sells an 8$ meter for soil that is fairly accurate.
it measures light/moisture/ph which is a bargain for the price.
PH you water down to about 5.8 - 6.2
leave the meter in for about 15 minutes for a true PH reading in water..
I use lemon juice, white vinegar or aspirin to accomplish this.
this ph level will allow the plant to absorb the maximum amount of nutrients

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Yellowing of Leaves Due to Nutrient Deficiency or Fungus?

Post by bluebud »

NameTaken wrote:Thanks Bloke! If I could give Karma, you'd get some. Username didn't transfer over from the old PG. (Whatever happened to it?) :scared:

Bluebud, There are no holes in the leaf. Would holes be caused by fungus?


Also, Fimming? Should I do it? These guys are in their third week of veg. from clone

Thanks All!
Yes if there were holes it would be from the fungus(septoria)usually on the lower part of the plant :bong:
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Post by PGs GossipGrrl™ »

roller24 wrote:Many nice potting soils around, all with perlite.
many folks around here add more to that.
make sure you pots have good drainage as well.

good source of growing infoImage found in this link.
LOL, r24 Ur link is gone, the one 2 ur site, where u'v copied the old OG FAQ, which is full of inaccurate/misleading/just plain bad info...it's a start, but too much of it isn't helpful, imho. Well here's an example below
roller24 wrote:Yes I would say it is time for some cropping for sure.
And about florescent lighting.
on the bulbs, be sure to find a bulb with the highest color number
Dr.Chronic wrote: The reason being, throughout the year the plants outside receive more 6500K light because the days in summer are long and hot and as Autumn/Winter gets closer the day gets shorter, and gradually receives less 6500K light and more 2700K light as the plant flowers. Do what you can to avoid bulbs within that 3500K 4000K because they emit very little light that Is useful to your plant.
Instead of parroting info that is clearly inaccurate, meebe do some research r24, b4 acting like what's about is fact. Show me a factual spectral output on those CFL 3.5k-4.5k, Y don't U? wavelength by wavelength micromoles/m^2 readings if u can :)?

For the OP, there is so many inaccuracies being throw @U, I suggest what I do in other threads full of this kind of poor quality info...go read up UB's thread on RIU, buy a book on plant culture as UB rec's. then go ask him some questions starting with *all* the info U can put into ur initial post.

Try moving farther away from the plants/leaves/soil ur taking pix with that Nikon PnS digicam, or figure out what the limitations of range R on the macro function. Then crop your larger images down to the specific part U want to show/post b4 uploading them, they will be more in focus if u do that.

PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
http://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant ... tions.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Most of U prolly forgot the best tread on the grow forums on the old PG (until mods, broke it up into disorganized pieces) with title 'why I feel U shouldn't use peat moss' or something like that. UB, likely won't admit where he first saw the link to hort. myths, that I posted on PG :D (ego, u know). UB would not agree with the section on peat moss/eviro damage in the link he posted on his PM thread.:

http://www.rollitup.org/3737039-post768.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Frank offers solid, simple info which is what you need. There's plenty of info on the web about plant culture. Aside from guys like Mel Frank's hard copy, I'd stay away from cannabis forums or at least take them with a grain of salt. There's too much confusion and hype and that's not what you need to succeed. Anyone can flip a timer, not many will take the time to understand what makes a plant tick.

Here's another site that dispels alot of horticultural myths, a must read at this link: http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
^ I won't be so enthusiastic as UB, good read, but don't 100% completely agree (and neither does UB if he took the time to think about it, remembered the PG peat moss thread :p ) I also have MF's Indoor Growers Guide, and for the n00b, the plant problem diagnosis section is quite confusing. Learning what makes ur plant 'tick' as UB suggests is not that easy, and he doesn't get it right himself, until he works on a problem after some failures...he won't admit that either :P

For instance, UB says 'welcome to Master Gardeners Guild' if u have dark green leaves. In general, perhaps. Diff. strains have dif. phenotype expressions of color of leaves. With orchids, if you have dark green leaves, too dark, ur plants are not getting enough light- usually...they should be 'Islamic Green' in color if @max health, not a 'Master Gardener Guild' if u don't recognize that.
After a while, people are just going to ignore it, like I did, like I do most TV commercials.

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Post by PGs GossipGrrl™ »

roller24 wrote:Also the brown bottom leaves could be damage from the overwatering event, as mine did similiar to yours after I had a heavy soil mix.
PH could be a factor as Blue pointed out.
Home depot sells an 8$ meter for soil that is fairly accurate.
it measures light/moisture/ph which is a bargain for the price.
PH you water down to about 5.8 - 6.2
leave the meter in for about 15 minutes for a true PH reading in water..
I use lemon juice, white vinegar or aspirin to accomplish this.
this ph level will allow the plant to absorb the maximum amount of nutrients
Depending on soil density, moisture retention capability, temp/humidity, light levels, plant vigor, stage of development, healthy or weak root system; the pots could be drying out slowly or fast, no way we can tell, the grower needs to dial it in from trial and error.

<edit> B 4warned, you can have the top soil complete dry, while the very bottom (where most of the roots end up in a root bound pot) could still be soaking wet, just perfect conditions for root rot...which is why you need to check soil moisture with a probe on top and bottom.

Good suggestion from r24 on the inexpensive bi-metal probes U can buy most places (don't assume all members r from USA/Canada). but I'll have to disagree on accuracy of pH part of that probe. I wouldn't rely on it for that great of accuracy. pH 5.8 is minimal....*if* correct. with one of those probes, if the soil is really ph5 or less, then you'll run into nute deficiencies that may or may not result in significant growth problems/plant health. Peeps could use one of those, especially a beginner like OP, and then do what so many do, over compensate by mistake and cause worse problems.

See link in my previous post :)
After a while, people are just going to ignore it, like I did, like I do most TV commercials.

JapanFreak-temp

Yellowing of Leaves Due to Nutrient Deficiency or Fungus?

Post by JapanFreak-temp »

Seamaiden wrote:Honestly though, they look like they could *really* use some more light to me. At a certain point it doesn't matter what you feed them if the driver (light energy) is insufficient.

:roflmao: I'm just curios, what about his pics made you think he needed more light?

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Post by NameTaken »

HALP!!! Brown spots spreading rapidly!! Up the plant. Fugus maybe? The plants are still growing like crazy, but more and more leaves are getting the spots and yellowing and dying. Any ideas guys?

Thanks, NameTaken
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