myPlanetGanja.com

but not really so long ago...

there was a little ogre...

just barely rooted in a rockwool cube.

but it's original caretaker had traded it off for a couple grams of weed, and then new owner had just sealed it up in a little plastic cup with only a few holes to breathe through, and taken it away from its' island paradise on a one-way road-trip to who-knows-where. then due to some big ugly spider-mites that had stowed away under its' leaves, it was placed in isolation under a little 22w cfl, and sprayed down repeatedly with safer 3-in-1 insect killing soap, alternated with volck oil spray for daze on end. then the rockwool cube was buried in a little 3/4 gallon pot full of supersoil mixed with a lot of perlite. and then finally it was thrown into the middle of a crowded detention area in the shadows of a bunch of big rough looking weeds in an extra shower stall in the back of an unused spare bathroom. it even had it's first mugshot taken. things were looking pretty bleak for the little ogre, but it could see that the light was actually quite bright, and that gave it some hope...

That's been fucking nibbled for sure...but the new growth looks ok.

thanks man. here's group shot from a few feet back...

the ogre is the tiniest one in the back there up on the soap ledge...

about a week or so went by, and it grew up a little bit...

but a bunch of pesky soil gnats had tried to munch on it's roots

before lounging permanently on the yellow sticky trap flag.

sorry about the lighting, it was really green, not pale as it appears, but i forgot to set the cam for "daylight" to compensate for the 400w mh

so as the next week or two went by...
i quickly trans'd it into a 2 gal pot,
failure to do so in a timely manner has often been my downfall
and it looked real hungry so i fed it some pureblendpro grow,
and some gh micro-(for hard water),
and diamond nectar fulvic acid
plus a little cal-mag and chelated iron plus
it was beginning to live up to it's name..
i could see it becoming a monster for sure..
i'd cleared the room except for the ogre and a fresh batch of clones.
the top automatically split into 2 mains,
and the pair of shoots below were just as large,
so i tied them down in 4 different directions using large coated paperclips,
and the next thing i knew they each sprouted a row of secondary shoots,
like a pair of criss-crossed candelabras...
and then as the 4 tops turned upward,
i re-trained and curved them all sideways and counterclockwise
and put it up on a pedestal... to eat some hot lumens.

OK, I see a happy ending coming. Could you give a stem a good rub for me and describe the resulting smell? It's getting big enough to begin revealing its chemotype to a good nose.

well i'm just getting over a cold, and am still a bit congested,
but i just rubbed an ogre stem and it just seemed kinda spicy smelling...

but i've also previously detected a strong odor of pine-sol with a hint of licorice..

it totally reminds me of the black domina i once grew...
with the same intense flavor that can make ya puke if you take too big of a hit,
and especially with it's straight and hard-as-nails pistils.
but my understanding is that it's really an elite pheno of sensi-star

i'm tellin yas, in reality that plant has long since been smoked..

Lookin Good Munchy, I just dropped 5 fionas this week.
I would definitely consider that tolerant traited girl when breeding, I assume her mom was fiona's mom as well?

thanks, but nah, this one here was more like shrek's granny...
as i recall fiona's mom was cindy, and btw my fiona is looking quite sexy right now...
but i don't wanna get too far ahead of myself and spoil the story here...
but i do plan to catch up pretty quick

A mosquito dunk in a gallon of water makes the gnats go away munchy.

^ thanks man, i did actually try that last year, more than likely based on your advice at PG...
but i also appreciate the reminder, as i suppose i'm overdue to give it another go currently as well..
there was just a gnat playing games in front of my monitor, as i was typing... i hate it when that happens.

the next week or so of veg continued going well...

starting to live up to it's name... looking a bit ogre-ish indeed..



then look what happened when i trans'd it again up to a 4gal pot...



edit: i almost forgot these next pics... after about another week the veg cycle was all complete.

I'm in love your plants are so perfectly fertirlized.

So lovely plants

thanks mmman.
the next pic was from 2 or 3 weeks into flowering under a 1k hortilux eye hps...
after i drilled some holes and made a 5 gallon pot real quick, lol

tried to make it like a hempy, except with a double bucket,
but it was really too late to take root in the res..
so i added some wicks too... and kept watering from the top.

after another week or so, it had the whole 1000 watts all to itself now

and then i added about 7 bamboo rods around... 1 for each cola...
although they didn't really need them... yet.
but even if they didn't require the extra support,
i still wanted to prevent any possible stress, before it even occurred ...

Thats starting to look like a pic of the month!!
an empty tub shower was my favorite set up to date.
perfect for hydro

lol, thanks man, but i just c/p that shit from somewhere else.
but yeh, once i finally figured out how to hang the light and shit...
what i did was cut a 3" pvc pipe to the exact width of the shower walls,
so it rests on top of the upper row of tiles,
with just enough spare room for a little sponge on the end to prevent bad vibes
btw, i've since switched it to a new light and blower...

so anyway, next it was like a couple weeks later... and then we're really getting somewhere!





here was like the same shot, but with a diff cam setting...

and... done.


^edit: just switched pic to a clearer version of same bud



as i recall the final dry bud weight was about 4.5 oz.

i had also recently harvested a bunch of other indoor and outdoor plants,
so then i was sitting on about a pound of smoke.
but this was no time for taking a break...
as i had just finished getting my new growroom set up,
and by then the cuttings i had taken from it before flowering were all ready for blooming,
along with a fresh batch of cindys, barneys, derailed blues, blue diesels, sweet lavender widow
and a few other new things like pot-of-gold, diesel wreck, and creme fruit.



but i had also been given an offer that i just couldn't refuse... a male ogre.
now whatever would i do with something like that i wonder? any guesses?

Very cool grow. I have a question about this in regards to the bamboo sticks

Munchy wrote:i still wanted to prevent any possible stress, before it even occurred ...

So I've always read and heard that the point for fans is for the stress as well as air-circulation and if everybody is super cropping and stuff it sounds like you have a different view on this. Is it the timing?

that looks lovely Munchy... you make them little green babies look so good..

great looking plants munchy, and i love what youve done with the bathroom hehehe

great stuff munchy, my ogre has a stalk that is approaching 1/2" and growing...I can only hope my girls grow to look as nice as what you have grown...I took cuts last week and am considering tossing the original into flower...

"a male ogre. now whatever would i do with something like that i wonder? any guesses?"
Introduce him to Princess Fiona?


OH yeah, And a really cool read and pixs!

thanks guys. yeh, after seeing the same ogre growth pattern, i introduced him to cindy and the whole gang and let him have a regular orgy for about a week. of the resulting 10 sets of seeds, for fundraiser purposes, the ones mothered by cindy99 were named fiona, and the ogreXogre seeds were named shrek.

another thing i did was to clone that bad boy and toss that in a 3/4g pot and then drop that down into another 5g bucket. then i took the bucket with all the holes in the bottom and made another big hole in the center... took apart an old light socket and rewired it back together so it was mounted inside the bucket through that center hole, and put a super-tiny 13w cfl in it, and then flipped it over and set it on top of the first one. then i wrapped the whole thing with a spare piece of panda, dropped in an outdoor thermometer probe, and put it on a timer that gives it a half-hour off after every 3 hours on, so it never gets too hot, along with a 4-hour break at one point so it's getting about 18 hours on per day to keep it in veg, but i think the way i give it all the breaks helps keep it from growing too fast, as well as using the weakest bulb i could find, lol. and then every few weeks i prune the hell out it, and take off most of the leaves, so there's not much left, and re-tie it down as far as possible, and it still seems pretty happy to this day... just keeps growing back... patiently looking forward to another orgy in the near future, with cindy and the female ogre to make some more shreks and fionas, and also will get with fiona herself, as well as many of it's other own offspring, when a bunch of newly arrived genetics, such as grandaddy-purple, grape, purple kush, santacruz OG kush, and with luck the purps (if it can get over it's early flowers and see it way to root also one of these daze), and maybe even some others that were recently promised during a smoke test of them, get all ready to join in as well.

love the quarantine box, very creative.

is there a reason why the sticky-yellow traps are divided into squares?? is that some kind of population count per area measure or just the way they make them??

thanks, yeh i suppose that is why they come with the lines on them... but i really just use the lines to help me cut them straight. since they come in about 4"x6" sheets, which cost about $5 for 4, i always cut them into 3 strips each, leaving at least 2 good holes in the ends for skewering through. but on my big ogre plant i actually did cut them down further into some small squares, which i then stuck one to the base of each big fan leaf to catch some mites that were beginning to make webs in those areas, toward the end of flowering.

That's engineering, it's like the mini-terrarium made from a coke bottle to ship a clone.

as an idiot and a fool I can testify thats true

ok wait a minute sorry,

im drunk

I love de skunk #1

It been very goot tew me

de skunk

I remember when it was like.. wow

new on road.

plant is obvious when you see it

first skunk

lol, well i didn't get many pic of that seed crop,
and those weren't too good, but here they are anyway.

more..

here's where i sprout my seeds and root my clones







a few of each kind of ogreX seeds are in there

that's where the new clones are currently





da Purps finally starting showing signs of growth, yay!


original purple kush


santacruz OG kush


grape


grandaddy purple

so here's the first few sprouts after a couple of daze






and here's the small crop i'll be done smoking in a few daze, when they were young in veg. i was thinking of leaving extra room for all those seedlings, maybe "splitting" the room into 2 cycle halves. but it didn't work out that way, so i just ran the whole bloom cycle with only these 7 plants last time. but this pic is a good example of how i train with the paperclips when they're real young.




and here's what was already bloomin at the time, in between the seed crop and the short crop
left side 2/3:

middle

very nice muchy....

thanks man.

here's a set of those 7 at 24 daze in...
sorry they didn't come out too good,
the background idea turned out to be kinda distracting.

Ogre


Cindy


Barney


POG-a


POG-b


DB


BD

now here comes a set of all the little OgreX's getting re-trained:
oh yeh, this background works much better, lol

OgreXogre





DBx





BDx

POGaX





POGbX





SLWx

DWx





CFx

BPx




C9x (aka Fiona)





and that completes the group as shown in this pic of the new equipment earlier,
but it really belongs right here in the timeline:

looks incredible Munchy... I love the poster background.

If I might ask, you're tying them down for training? how long do you keep them anchored?

Is that all the way through? or just in Veg?

Yeah ,dig the poster.. I was fooled in the first pic, looked like the eye leaves were on the plant. Kewl all round

thanks guys. yeh smokes, i just tie them down during veg, as during blooming i would tend to turn around and support them up instead, if it were at all needed. i believe training and stress is beneficial during veg, and blooming should be more stress-free. and those last ones were already being re-trained, as i had previously had them tied down for a couple/few daze, and then they had been released for a few daze, and would be going through that cycle once or twice more. it kept me real busy there for a couple of weeks.. until they start popping some good shoots for cuttings and general bushiness, and to prevent any from getting too tall as well.

and i almost forgot, here's the orig set of clones that was also in there with those, on the left side. notice how they were smaller, about a week or so behind, because it was hard to sync up the seeds and clones together, and now this seems like it's about to end up affecting the yield, since they all had to go into flowering together asap, as i needed all the veg space for the next crop of OgreX clones.















^^and btw, that is the reason i always take 2 cuttings of each..
just in case one doesn't make it, the other is a backup so i won't lose the strain, without having a dedicated set of mother plants. but then i can't waste them or let my numbers double up, so that's why i have to double them up in the pots instead. right now i have about 25 different things to sort through and get narrowed down to the top 10 or something, asap. but i'll still have to give some of these spare phenos a fair shake before i give em the boot.

Pulling up a chair and enjoying the grow show.

But Munchy, think it's such a good idea to have family photos up in the grew room pics?

yeh, it's ok because he was wearing shades, lol

my mouse is acting very crazy, it was like pulling teeth to edit this next set of pics

and get em posted. i just had it almost done and the page flipped back by itself. now
i'm using notepad to retype it, because it wants to keep playing games with my browser.

anyway... they're of the bloomin 7, a little bit later on..

lookin in to the left



to the right



ogre



barney



cindy



DB



BD



pogA (sorry i had a bad cam setting, then tried to adjust it, but with poor results)



pogB

so shortly thereafter, and being low on meds,
i had cut a few premature buds off the bottom of each plant..

now i know this all ain't really that impressive...
but they're pretty small plants, my cam sucks,
and i'm mostly just trying to keep it real.
because my goal here is really to compare the results of these strains,
before and after the Ogre... as i think it will be a happy ending indeed.
and i'm still kinda setting the stage...
i imagine it's going to improve the yields and potency so much that i'll just cut all these originals out, except for the orig ogre, which will probably become the least desired
so anyway, here i was at 45 daze and decided to harvest the whole crop a bit early
due to needing the space vacated for seedlings to start flowering asap.

[flash forward 45 more daze] i'm gonna watch Shrek the Halls tonite.
and i'm down to about 6g from this crop, and in two daze i'll start smoking the next crop
the orig cindy, barney, and DB are just dry now... gotta jar em up and start curing.
the ogre and both orig pogs are about ready to chop now i think
and i need to get some fresh clones cut like yesterday...
i'm trying to keep from harvesting it all early this time,
so i'll need to flip to veg over to 12/12 for a week or two while the clones root.[/flash forward]

so anyway here was Cindy, 45 daze is perfect for her




and the Derailed Blues is also quite ready at 45 daze

thank man, i was just about to say that they may be small but at least they are quick and tasty.
i did stop feeding them all at around 30 daze...
just straight water for close to a couple of weeks for kinda passive flushing...

Barney's usually about ready in 45 too..








Ogre







Blue Diesel

pot of gold -A







pog-B





all hangin up... the total dry weight was only about 4oz or so.
too bad it was only a half-sized crop... i could've easily had twice as many.

the seedlings were starting to get unruly..


preppin for major clonage..

My Fiona (Cinderella99 x Ogre)

Stunning work munchy!!

Yeah - he's doing the business........
Great stuff....

thanks guys!

here's the Diesel Wreck x Ogre:



Barney Purple(w/Blue13) x Ogre:



Creme Fruit x Ogre:


Derailed Blues (w/SensiStar)

Pot-of-Gold-(a)



Pot-of-Gold-(b)



Pot-of-Gold-(b) x Ogre

Blue Diesel (w/SensiStar):



Blue Diesel (w/SensiStar) x Ogre:



Sweet Lavender Widow x Ogre:



Ogre:

Munchy wrote:

My Fiona (Cinderella99 x Ogre)

damn nice munchy..

BRAVO

looks to me in some of those photos that you have thrips.

thanks guys, yeh i've been battling with some mites actually..
at least they didn't get to the buds.
i had dipped all the leafs in a cup of safers a couple weeks prior..
and whenever i do that, or spray them down,
the mite damage seems to show up more clearly all of a sudden.
so the problem looks worse, when the mites are all dead.
i keep alternating the safer's 3in1 with volks oil spray every week or two,
spraying all up under the leafs and everywhere,
until they're like a few weeks into flowering,
but the damn borg just keep coming back.
and that was part of my reason for harvesting all on day 46..
besides being about ready enough, especially with the next crop beatin the door down.
but i looked at a live one under a lighted magnifier,
and it was real big compared to ones i've seen before,
and it looked like it did a little break-dance, right there in front of me!

if it was cold enough to slow down the mites that much, wouldn't that also inhibit plant growth?

what temperature range would you recommend?

~GUANO~ wrote:Yeah, cool temps will slow down vegetative growth, even more so in hydro....but those same temps will give you better bud formation...the temps that will slow you down are when lights are off, the temps that cause mites are from lights on temps...If your goal is to grow the best smoke you can keep the room under 72, if you completely get rid off your mites and then never let the room get over 72 you'll never see mites again.

here's my current temps, when both rooms have been on for at least 4 hours
the first gauge sits right in front of me and the pc monitor, so it shows the temp in the outer room the bloomin closet is right behind me, and this one has it's outdoor probe in there at the canopy level, in between the lights. the clone rooting chambers are in here too, and i think they need to be about this warm for good rooting. and here's something i found somewhere about how temps affect mites...
apparently it just takes longer, but at 70F, they can still hatch and reach adulthood within a couple of weeks. now i know all mites are not created equal, but i think you're just lucky you haven't met the supermites i've been battling with. i think they may have came in on the ogre. but when i first learned that they'll develop a resistance to an insecticide, i thought it was just specific to a certain kind, which i haven't been using for years. but i learned that they'll develop a resistance to just about about anything if you don't switch up on them. and that's obviously a mistake i made too. so i got some Forbid to knock em down, and Azatrol to keep em away, and that should take real good care of it.

btw, here's the door to the veg bathroom, i usually keep it nearly closed now and here's the veg with the panda and curtain in place as normal and here's the temp of the outdoor probe that's in there, hangin off the top edge of the middle pot, is the upper reading, which is a couple degrees lower than the reading below that of the gauge area just inside the door

btw, the bloom closet has dual powered intakes..
the first one here is all acrylic, with dual fans, and a cleanable K&N filter, which i always keep a fresh bounce dryer sheet over that. the 2nd one, i use to get rid of my smoke... the intake hose comes up under an incense burner, also covered with a bounce sheet you can't see it too well behind the CO2 tank, but the 2nd intake inline 45cfm fan is back there, and the hose goes right into that side of the closet back down there.

there's a heating mat under a 4' x 18" shelf, that they're sitting on, but it's turned off.
i have another shelf over top of the lights that is actually keeping it just warm enough.
3 days ago the first 15 rooted, and i trans'd them from 9oz cups into 16oz cups, then 13 more had rooted by next day, and then 12 more yesterday, and 4 more were rooted and trans'd up today... so i guess it's doing ok.

~GUANO~ wrote:>>>>and here's the veg with the panda and curtain in place as normal


Is there a good reason for the curtain...?

If not get rid of it.

is there a good reason to get rid of it?


sometimes it helps a little to cut down the amount of light coming out of there and hitting the upstairs windows to make this place look like a lighthouse... as it already sticks up a story higher than all the houses around it... and although that curtain rod is also holding up the panda, which has a white inside to provide reflection to the plants... any passersby, such as the cats, wife, or possible tiny uninvited critters don't need to see the bright light and greenery all exposed around the sides and bottom, and reflecting off the big mirror. the cats love to eat that stuff, and they can jump the gate if they get tempted enough... and the wife has seen more than enough of all this years ago, so i try to keep it out of her face. besides if i wanted to clear the room out to make it presentable for some reason, that would be the one thing to stay behind... so i'd rather not misplace it in the garage from hell or somewhere. i can pull it aside any time i want, but like i said it's under 72F behind it, which is 2 degrees cooler than the rest of the room, so i don't see a problem. but thanks for your concern.

besides, i think it's perty.

>>How is it cooler under the lights then the rest of your room...?

because the cool tube, blower and exhaust tube are all running very efficiently, i'd imagine.
and there is an extra little fan blowing under the light as well, just above that probe.
the "indoor" gauge is just inside the door, lol
and all the warm air coming up the stairway, tends to get sucked right into that room.
there's also a heater vent just above inside the doorway,
but i've got it mostly closed off, but not completely sealed.

i think those mites from the Ogre were already resistant to the Safers before they even got here. and i think all the extra damage that appeared whenever i sprayed them with it, was actually just evidence of them digging in and resisting. and i'm guessing i won't be seeing them anymore now, after having applied Forbid just once the other day, as it kills the eggs too. then the Azatrol, which is organic, says it can be used up to the day of harvest, but i plan to apply it only once as preventative measure, before they actually start flowering, and then i shouldn't need to apply it again at all as the single application should be effective for 4-8 weeks anyway. and as you say, once they're gone, they should stay gone... unless i'm given any more infested clones..

no problem, i wouldn't want to smoke bug spray either... i guess i just needed to explain it a little better. have you heard about Forbid and Azatrol before? i just recently found them on ebay.

Forbid's active ingredient, spiromesifen, is a lipid biosynthesis inhibitor (LBI). It is the only miticide to use the LBI mode of action. The product's translaminar activity means it can be sprayed on the top of leaves and will travel through to kill insects feeding underneath.

The company says Forbid prevents mites and whiteflies at all life stages (eggs, immatures, adults) from maintaining proper water balance, so they dry up and die. Nate Royalty, product development manager for Bayer ES, said Forbid provides knockdown and residual control for four to six weeks.

Forbid is labeled for control of:

* Spider mites, including:
o two-spotted spider mites
o Southern red mite
o Boxwood spider mite
o spruce spider mite
o euonymous mite
* False spider mites
* Broad mites
* Eriophyid rust mites
* Whiteflies:
o Sweet potato
o Silverleaf
o Greenhouse whiteflies

~~

INFORMATION FOR AZATROL EC

Azatrol is a broad spectrum botanical product for control of insects and mites on indoor and outdoor vegatables and crops, shrubs, flowers, garden vegetables, fruit and nut trees. Azatrol offers an array of effects by acting as a repellent, anti-feedant, insect growth regulator and ovipositioning deterrent. As a molting inhibitor, it prevents insect larvae from developing into adults. Insects will feed less or not at all on treated foliage, ultimately starving to death, they will also fail to mature and reproduce. This complexity also makes it impossible for an insect's resistance to develop - Low odor and OMRI listed.

What are some of the pests Azatrol controls?

* Mites
* Caterpillars
* Leafhoppers
* Aphids
* Leafminers
* Fungus Gnats
* Flies
* Whiteflies
* Psyllids
* Thrips
* Beetles
* Weevils
* Scales
* Mealy Bugs

Benefits of Azatrol

* Broad Spectrum Control
* No build up of Pesticide Resistance
*
* Organic approvals from: OMRI, USDA-NOP, IMO-IFOAM, RIOA, BFA
* 4 hour re-entry; can be applied day of harvest
* foliar or tank application

Anti-feedant Activity
Azatrol has primary, secondary and tertiary anti-feedant activity. Azatrol acts on the‘taste’ receptors in the insect’s mouth, stimulating deterrent neurons and inhibiting attractant neurons. The result is that the insects starve or just nibble for survival before they die. Insects which require more specific plant foods are more susceptible to this primary anti-feedant activity.

Azatrol affects the movement of food through the insect’s digestive system. Food stays in the gut so feeding is suppressed. Thus, the secondary anti-feedant activity disrupts normal feeding behavior, also contributing to the starvation of the insect.

The tertiary anti-feedant activity of Azatrol affects digestion through inhibition of digestive enzymes.

What this means to your insect control program: Insects fail to damage plants and ultimately starve to death.

Insect Growth Regulator (IGR)
Insect growth regulators work in a variety of ways, but the most common is to disrupt the maturation cycle of the insect. Azatrol also works in this way affecting hormones that regulate growth.

Larvae treated with Azatrol will experience decreases in weight gain, delayed or disrupted molting and an inability to shed old body capsules and, generally, death. In the event of larva escaping growth regulation, pupa and adult growth is affected, leaving them unfit, malformed or dead.

What this means to your insect control program: Insects will fail to mature and reproduce. This eliminates populations over time and keeps them at minimum levels.

Anti-ovipository and Repellent
Several studies have documented the anti-ovipository characteristic of azadirachtin. Simply put, many insects will not lay eggs on treated plant tissue. Azatrol also acts as a repellent to many insect species.

What this means to your insect control program: The likelihood of insect infestation is greatly decreased in treated plants. This also adds a preventative aspect to your control program.

Application:
foliar: 1-4 tbs per 1 gallon of water
drench: 1-2 tbs per 1 gallon of water

yeh, all my old pressure sprayers were getting that way too, so i just got a new one, called a ladybug, which works really well... puts out a great superfine mist. i'll probably pick up a spare one..

many miticides work via plant absorption, as opposed to direct contact.
but i figured when my old sprayer quit doing the mist right,
the little fuckers might be able to tiptoe around the treated spots,
like it was a little minefield. and i'd rather not use any wetting agent,
and i think i shouldn't need to, if the mister is doing it's job right.

~GUANO~ wrote:I've used Azatrol in my freinds rooms before, they need to make smaller bottles, the smallest size I've seen was about $80 and it was about 20x more then needed for the job....I also used it outside a few years back for some unknown bugs with no luck.

there's all kinds of deals going on @ ebay for under $20, to buy it now & w/free shipping.

Munchy wrote:many miticides work via plant absorption, as opposed to direct contact.
but i figured when my old sprayer quit doing the mist right,
the little fuckers might be able to tiptoe around the treated spots,
like it was a little minefield. and i'd rather not use any wetting agent,
and i think i shouldn't need to, if the mister is doing it's job right.

~GUANO~ wrote:I've used Azatrol in my freinds rooms before, they need to make smaller bottles, the smallest size I've seen was about $80 and it was about 20x more then needed for the job....I also used it outside a few years back for some unknown bugs with no luck.

there's all kinds of deals going on @ ebay for under $20, to buy it now & w/free shipping.

"many miticides work via plant absorption", not particularly accurate, but I guess an ignoramus like Merry might get the basic inference...or not . That's kind of like something benji or Prawn would say; which would tell someone like UB or myself, ya don't really understand very well :0

Actually Munchy, *you* the applicator needs to do the job 'right' . Ie, if you miss a spot, ur @fault, not the mister. Most difficult to find now, the 1gal sprayers with brass wand that had a nozzle which could rotate 360º to spray @any angle. Most just have a brass wand/nozzle tilted to an angle leaving you to need to twist your hand to get the correct angles to apply to *all* leaf surfaces as well as *soil*.

Not sure why Munchy is acting like ~G~ (or a sock of the real ~G) is some kind of grow master. UB knows more than this poster in this thread---ya wanner learn something M, go see UB on RIU. Hell ~G on PG, didn't even understand cantaloupes grown in Mexico on a certain thread I guess Munchy missed (ask PG TrollMod™ benji, he remembers).

Perhaps Munch, ~G is referring to manufacturer's *orig* containers being too large, as the one's ur finding on ebay are just a seller putting into smaller bottles, as this link states:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 602_263622

next link to Calif hydro e-tailer also breaks the larger quantity containers into minute amounts for 'residential' vs 'commercial' users which is what the manufacturer targets these products for...commercial ag uses.

http://stores.ebay.com/The-Hydro-Source ... op=2&_sc=1

*note* on Attain fogger, instructions on 1.5-3k sq/ft rooms, for smaller rooms the concentration could damage weaker plants. I forget if it was OpG, probably TCC, I could only find one brand of pyrethrin fogger than was pure pyrethrin w/o the added synergistic Piperonyl butoxide compound...something to consider, depends on how many syn or 'natural' chemicals ur comfortable with. With a fogger, you might gain the upper hand on hidden mites in a room. But U might still have to deal with 'winter' egg populations hatching in warmer weather.

Learn, not buy going to TCC or listening to ~G who *cannot* guarantee you'll never get mites again via that simplistic regimen above which clearly shows a lack of understanding about mite lifecycles/propagation. But by doing simple homework via the internet...so easy, even a caveman can do it.

Azatrol/Azamax = Neem oil derived

IPM uses *rotation* to prevent resistance, since mites can go through upwards of 8 generations (5-days only under optimal conditions for the 2-spotted mite).


http://nathist.sdstate.edu/orchids/Pests/mites.htm

^Good read, specific to orchids, but general info on mites/control methods is instructive.

^keep in mind, while they say that insecticides are mostly poor on mites, because mites are not insects, I can assure you malathion will kill mites dead! I had the dreaded webbing all over the chicken wire and leaves of the Babcock tree my mother has in a 20gal pot, sprayed at higher rec'd concentration, killed all those suckas dead early Nov, in time to harvest three, 2nd crop, peaches in late November (cause unlike UB, I'm a master fruit gardener who gets late 2nd crop peaches to ripen in all the way up to winter)- tasted better than the June/July main harvest.

Always try to test any new spray on your plants becuz you never know if you'll damage or stress them. Even the lower doze of Malathion will damage even mature raspberry leaves...from personal experience; while similar species, blackberry leaves are unaffected by same.

Another point, is whether or not you use a wetting agent, you have *no* idea if any of these are safe to breath in via combustion byproducts. Any number of 'safe' on food/fruit crop chemicals, "organic" or not, have never been tested for safety as far as smoking...unless you can find literature on tobacco products...and would you trust a tobacco study anyway? I'm sure there are many compounds you can ingest by eating them which have not effect on your lungs...if you know what I mean .

If you can get by with lesser mite management, ie, spraying with cool water, and not using anything else...is it not better?


Link Munchy 'forgot' to post, the chart ~G has never seen b4:

http://www.canr.msu.edu/vanburen/fermite.htm

^If you reuse your soil, and mites have laid eggs in there, come spring or whenever temps get above ~50F, you'll have mites hatching, don't believe what ~G tells you. So you got mite infested clones from somewhere else, this is hardly the *only* vector for introducing mites into an indoor grow.

Last paragraph in above link is especially important, on TCC it was mentioned that improper use of Avid has resulted in resistance in some mites, in Nor. Cal. ...I don't recall details, probably not much provided.

Miticides with different modes of action should be rotated within a season or from season to season to delay the development of resistance. Once resistance to a miticide has developed through selection pressure and the miticide is no longer used, the mite population will regress from homozygous resistance to heterozygous resistance. Therefore, a miticide to which resistance was developed some years ago can often be effective again if employed only once in a season. It generally requires a few generations for the mites to regain resistance when exposed to repeated applications of the miticide. Such miticides could be effectively used in a rotation of miticides with different modes of action.

UB said on PG, anyone who says they've never had mites is either a liar, or they haven't grown MJ. Knock on wood, I'm not a liar and I've grown many a crop over the yrs indoors (with plenty of mites all over the place outside---mites love roses & fruit tree leaves; been lucky, no mites, lots of fungus gnats).


http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2012.html

Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite overwinters as adult females resting in protected places.
Twospotted Spider Mite

The twospotted spider mite is an example of a 'warm season' mite. This pest has been reported from over 180 host plants including field crops, ornamental plants, house plants and weeds.

The females overwinter in the soil or on host plants. The females become active in April and May when they seek out the undersides of leaves on suitable hosts. Each female may lay over 100 eggs. A single generation may require as much as 20 to as few as five days, depending on the temperature. These mites prefer hot, dry weather and often do not reach damaging populations in cool, rainy periods.

In the summer, the adults and nymphs are white with two greenish spots. However, overwintering females usually turn reddish-orange and can be mistaken for other mite species.

Pro tip to Munchy, instead of whining about JF like the mind-numbingly dense & boring Merry, try ignoring his posts, ie don't feed the trolls, JF lives for your response to his posts...like I ignore the duplicitous hypocrite UR when you join Smokes in a gangbang site-wide trolling of a member via site-wide sticky thread...what do U think a new member is going to see when they read that thread, Smokes & U lead by example showing all new (potential) members what they can be subjected to, TOU & rules *only* apply to some, site politics as usual...man you guys are clueless! <holds up mirror to Munchy...all Munchy can see is how pretty he thinks he is...like TCC's Kendo>

Ya, I know, could have broken a long post into dozen 1-2 liners...sorry, no time, too lazy for that, lol

its hard to believe ive been reduced to reading the grow forums...

and that i've been reduced to posting threads in them...

Another point, is whether or not you use a wetting agent, you have *no* idea if any of these are safe to breath in via combustion byproducts.

in other words, i think what is obvious to most...
is that it's fairly simple to avoid smoking poison...
if you do not apply insecticide or miticide to the buds,
only apply it to the leafs during veg.
this gives your plants at least 6 weeks to clear
and then don't smoke the leafs.
and don't use a fucking possibly carcinogenic nerve toxin! hellloooo....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dicofol
http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Che ... Id=PC33427

have you also checked for thrips? the damage i saw on your lower leaves could be either.

Munchy wrote:

My Fiona (Cinderella99 x Ogre)

Really enjoying this cross munch man. A keeper for sure.

dats all I smoke nowadays is my fiona...damn fine strain...respects to the breeder

bump

I just reviewed this thread for the first time in years... sure brings back some good memories from 10 years ago... once upon a time with my lovely Fiona!

is fiona still alive ?
curious about her inner qualities ... as im on a mission, kinda , .... anyways, C99 is an important key figure in this misson, which is all about stability, fruitiness and potency

she was most definitely a superstar all the way around, but none are alive here currently, so I'll be checking on my seed stash soon to see if I have any left to get started.

I’ve just acquired some Brothers Grimm C-99 but don’t have the room for them at this time.
I will be popping them in a few months and will post shots of the grow if folks are interested.
To be honest I was going to stop showing my grows after the Rosetta Stone and G-13 Genius as I have nothing new to share that I haven’t already posted and others have posted BG C-99 on this site before.

c99
one of only a few strains I can always id by looking at the leaf