WHAB Grow Residence & Still Forming Woodworking Shop I

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

I'm way behind where I had hoped I'd be at this point.

Besides a few curve balls in this rebuild, I've had other things to attend to.

The Pain Clinic √. Not sure what they will prescribe. It's not really why I went in. I do need them on occasion but I really don't like them.

BUT, they have already put in a request to get me an Adjustable Bed...I received a message it was sent in their Patient Portal. I don't know if that will do the trick, but I'm hoping it will. It is my bed that sent me to the pain clinic in the first place.

I did discuss Cannabis with the Doctor. His "personal opinion" is favorable. He asked me that IF I do decide to use Cannabis to please let him know.

MMJ Renewal took a good amount of time (hours and hours, I mean) to get through and $246+ (total, $114 to the Elevate Holistics, $132+ to the state - that includes Patient and Cultivator Licenses) BUT...

MMJ Renewal √ (filed, not yet approved)

I was receiving count down emails from the state. Titled 60 days out. Titled 45 days out. When it got to the 30 day point I got an email telling me the Renewal Window Was Closed. I never opened those other emails because I was going by their countdown in the title. That 60 day countdown included the minimum 30 days required for a easier renewal, I discovered after the fact...they need 30 days to get it done. I didn't know the 60 days counted down to the window closing at 30 days. I don't expect any trouble getting the renewal but...I probably should have opened at least one of the emails!

On to the build! Again, I'm at least a week behind schedule!

I had a bit of trouble with the pneumatic framing nailer. It slams them home on the face of the board but not toe-nailing. I started one stud and it was WAY OUT OF SQUARE, the board had a really bad twist in it. Once I had a few nails in it I put a clamp on it to force submission to square. It didn't like that and I pretty much destroyed it! It double fired more that a few time, this is one example of that.

I returned to pre-drilling each end for 3 screws on each end.

Then puzzling over the new space. I can't staple to the cement wall...I had to come up with something to staple to. They're 1x2s painted all 4 sides because they were originally intended as Window Insulation Trim. The vertical blocks will allow me to put some force behind the stapler without distorting the Panda Film too much. I didn't want to use 2x4 for that. I'm almost out of 2x4s. Knowing that my system is going to suck the heck out of any wall covering I put up, I had to support it in some way. That''s all I could come up with. I hope it holds!

Then, I didn't notice until the other day that the loft joists are 12 inches on center You can see the joists above and below. I'm going to have to cut each piece of insulation that I put up there. I have 16 inch fiberglass insulation but I really don't want to put any material up there that may be exposed to moisture. I'm going to try and put Rockwool/Mineral Wool throughout, ceiling and all 3 walls.

And, the South wall is 4x4s with 2x4s on their face. I'm going to have to build that out to some point that I can staple to. But, I also want to insulate that wall. Right now the 2x4s on their face are 24 inch on center. Will probably have to build that wall out as well just to properly insulate it.

I've been puzzling what I'm going to do because I wanted to insulate the ceiling and at least 2 walls before I put up the Panda Film. I wanted to have the Panda Film start at the floor and make the bend to the ceiling in one piece - the Panda Film is 10 foot wide. I could have covered much of the ceiling that way. Get them both covered at the same time.

I have decided to just Black/White from the floor to the ceiling and cut the rest off. I'll use it on the ceiling when I get to that point.

This is folded out to about 18 feet. That's enough to do from one side of the doorway (East wall), back across the cement wall (North wall) and the wall I just framed in, (West wall).

I still have to add a few staple blocking to the East wall. I have them cut already...just have to install them.

Insulation is on hold. I'm beyond broke at the moment.

I missed Spaghetti Sunday Will have to do it tomorrow.

BUT, I won't miss out on Italian Ambrosia. I made some last night. I've never had Ambrosia with Mascarpone in it. I had never even heard of it before. It's what I would have made had any store been open when we had Christmas Dinner (7 layer lasagna!).

I got the recipe from here...

https://www.food.com/recipe/italian-ambrosia-441553

I did add extra cherries and Mandarin orange slices.

Looks yummy! Gonna have some Ramen (it is "spaghetti", sort of! ), then dig in to the Italian Ambrosia.

I am pondering stacking my Vegetative buckets on top of my Flower buckets this go around. Since I plan to Root/Veg/Flower in the same space this go-round I'm puzzling out what it would take to stack them. Then just remove the top stack to get to the next stack.

Anybody ever heard such a thing?

*Overripe melon on duty!*

Any suggestions regarding framing the South wall to accept insulation or insulating the 12 inch on center ceiling joists would he awesome! I'm open!

Make it a great week, my friends!

Oh, is also on duty!

,
WHAB

[Butcher Bob]

Any suggestions regarding framing the South wall to accept insulation or insulating the 12 inch on center ceiling joists would he awesome! I'm open!

Not sure if they make 12", but certain that 24" could be halved to fit.
Rockwool...good stuff.

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Any suggestions regarding framing the South wall to accept insulation or insulating the 12 inch on center ceiling joists would he awesome! I'm open!

Not sure if they make 12", but certain that 24" could be halved to fit.
Rockwool...good stuff.

Yes, thank you, brother.

I have been contemplating the options. Would have been great had they settled on ONE 'conventional' building method!

Your suggestion is a great one!

A couple of other folks on the other site, one being an old friend of ours, suggested spray foam (the homemaker type, I'm sure) and the rigid foam.

One problem with the homemaker type of spray foam insulation is the loft floor and that oddly built South wall has gaps throughout them...broken tongues and broken grooves on the nearly 100 year old repurposed flooring.

I want Rockwool/Mineral Wool. I don't have Rockwool or Mineral Wool on hand and given this bill ...

...I'm not sure where I'm going to fit it in! Mid-month at the very earliest, without any other surprises.

I do have 2 full sheets of 2" rigid foam insulation I can use on the oddly wall they built.

But, I'm going to concentrate on the other three walls first. I can get the Panda Film on those walls an insulate them later with whatever I can get my hands on at that time.

I just struggled outdoors in freezing temperature trying to get the black/white to a more manageable one person size.

I can't transfer the pictures to my PC - AGAIN! I've been trying for about an hour now.

I'm going to try and get the black/white on the 3 walls now.

Wish me luck, old friend!

!,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

Panda Film brought to you by our good friend Lrus!

I 'thought' there was a chance I could precut the Panda Film's height on the floor in here...

It quickly become evident that was not going to happen!

Where I had to make my cut - 74 inches - was right in the middle of the third fold leaving an additional fold beyond that. I couldn't get to the cut with it folded up.

PLAN B

I had to string it out in the lawn in freezing temperatures...(Kinco Winter gloves made this possible - I was out there wrestling that sheet around (fighting against occasional gusts of wind) for a good little while - and my hands never did get cold! )

This is cut to its height (using the back edge of my Festool Guide Rail as a straight edge making absolutely positively sure not to gouge the aluminum)...

Then applying Lrus's great idea!

Then the first attempt at hanging it on the short wall, the East wall, the wall with the tentative doorway in it.

I'm putting the factory edge on the floor end to hopefully be able to follow a some-what straight line - even though I KNOW there isn't a straight line in this place. Not one that I have encountered, yet!

I"m going to go around and get it all temp-installed then go back and reinforce the rest of it.

YUGE step nearly done!

!,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

That worked a treat!

Thank you, Lrus!

I should have mentioned that my second set of hands helping me with this is a Irwin Quick-Clamp. It worked great making managing this 18 foot long and 6 feet high sheet of floppy material by one person easier than I thought it would!

I'm sure it would have ripped out had I not had those few points reinforced at so few points.

I was also able to keep the straight bottom edge pretty much on line!

One mistake I did make but it turns out in a good way!

Understand, I could have lied and no one would be the wiser...

I intended to bring this one sheet up to the fourth wall, the South wall. I somehow cut it short by about a foot.

But, after I cut it to length the other day, I had forgotten I planned a long while ago that I was going to put a Zipper Door in that wall (I have the zipper right here next to me) - because of the lessons learned the last grow where I couldn't easily manage the Girls from just that one access point.

So, happy accident!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

There, that's done!

As far as those three walls are concerned, that is.

Next I'm going to get my buckets mocked up. I'm going to try a "stacked" systems idea that hit me the other day.

It may not work, but I do want to try.

Besides having both systems ready to go and only have to remove the one to get to the other (pre-plumbed except for connecting to their respective controller bucket), I think. It will keep those Veg plants off the floor and at a height more readily agreeable to my aching back!!!

And, I don't remember IF I ever mentioned it but, it is the only reason it has occupied any space in the Classroom.

I have always had it in mind to use it somewhere. I intend to use this antique door as the primary door for the under-loft grow space.

I don't know where it came from. It didn't come from this building. There aren't any interior "doorways".

I do know I removed it from the cubicles my niece made under the loft - it was a divider (attached sideways).

It's had one end cut off already, I think the bottom (which is actually the top in this picture - look at the skeleton key-hole). I found that cut-off piece and used it in the landing on the modified ships ladder I built.

She clenched a couple of the screws she used to mount it to the 2 middle 4x4s that were in there. I had to maul the door just a bit to get it removed.

I 'may' leave it in that orientation as I 'think' the door knob would be too low to the floor as it is now if properly oriented.

I'm pretty sure I found the other 1/2s of those original hinges here. I found them separately and in different areas but I knew what they were when I saw them. The 1/2s I found were rather crusty. I fairly certain I can clean them up well enough.

I 'may' remove the tongue&groove flooring in the loft (the section right above the new grow space) before there is any sensitive equipment or ladies beneath it. even IF I don't lay underlayment down up there now, it will be ready for when I can. the last time I looked water-resistant underlayment is going for around $61+. I'd need 3 sheets to do it all up there.

Good morning!

Make it a great day!

Time for a well earned

,
WHAB

[rSin]

toenails with a framing gun can be a real bitch
your results look like insufficent air pressure and insufficent force holding the nose of the gun in place when you fired it
better to tonail on the the broad face of the stud

but when doing small jobs a much prefer to predrill and use framing screws
i get the board exactly where i want it as opposed to the nailgun
but it does take more time
never had a boss who had a problem with doing that even with a nailgun available

insulation
always a pain
using a brand new blade in your boxcutter is very helpful
and theres tricks to it
weather is single faced or encapsulate

one trick is to make a tool
you take some 1/4inch plywood or masonite

your piece needs to be a couple feet long and make 8 or 10 inmches wide

if your confident with a skill saw it goes pretty quick but there are other ways to

cut a groove in your piece that run down the center but comes short about 4 or5 inches from the end

this can them be used to press the insulation down enough that your razor knife can easily cut the insulation in one stroke


be sure youve a piece of plywood or a spot on the floor free of nails
doesnt work on concrete though
your blade will be dull in the first stroke so it easier to have a piece of plywood under the insulation

[rSin]

a caution with the spray insulation
dont apply more that 3 or 4 inches thick at a time
if its to thick it wont cure properly and will then out gas smelly shit for months
and stuff you shouldnt be breathing

when a company comes in and sprays the whole ceiling of a home
the advise is for the homeowner/family to stay else where that night

inexperiene 'pros' often get it to thick in places and the family smells it
the company will inspect, remove any of the insulation that was to thick
then reapply it proper in those spots

good luck

[rSin]

a trick for brightening up hardware is to put it in a cement mixers barrel with a good measure of broken glass
turn it on and let it work

greak for brightening up old crusty hardware specially if its got paint on it

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

I'm going to have to get back to you, brother.

This big baby is babysitting a painful neck

I must have done something to it. It hurts like heck to turn my head to the right.

Thank you in advance, though, friend! ,
WHAB