myPlanetGanja.com

usually i get to do a bathroom or kitchen
rarely a whole house

first off
drywall texture is of satan
often used to try and mask the horrible taping job theyd done

first you orbital sand with 40 grit the walls
gotta take off the high spots
and they are domes of multipe paint coats
which are a serious bitch to cut into
adaquately

THEN you go after the bad tape

the corners are mostly shit as the fuckers couldnt get a decent bed of mud behind their tape so you burn into them hard

and in the field
even with mud behind their paper they still didnt get real adhesion

old mud that sat out?
heavy dust on the walls to begin with???

who knows

but

next, i shit you not

i spend DAYS taping my finder along every inch of these visible tape joints
listened for instead of a solid thump
you get a clack clack

which i mark with pencil as i work the room going for the next step

which is 'the machine'

its just a small right angle grinder
with coarsest stiff surface sanding disk

to chase these bad sections of old work

first you have to burn through the paint
even decades old that shits gummy as fuck

and christ knows how much lead im Including results for aerosolizing....
Do you want results only for Aerosolizing...?

next a milimeter or two of much then the old tape
with the overburden gone half the time it just peels off the wall

after that i burn through whatever mud was underneath it
and this grinding rig allows me to take it down the the drywall paper
without going through

leaving me with a decent trench into the walls surface

on goes the fiberglass tape
and then i start mudding these dents

at this stage its all about the 20 minute hot mud

no matter how thick you put it one you can sand it in a couple hours

the first coat is to bed that fiber tape as far down as possible
no need to sand that

next you start building up back to the walls surface

takes two or three applications to get fair

THEN

you FINALLY get on to the detail business

its takes about 3 skim coats of regular topping compound to wind up with smooth walls from there

the first 2 coats you sand out and flush with 80 grit paper

but the last one you sand with a fine grain sanding sponge

which are GENIOUS at fairing up inside corners

they also leave a fine finish on the mud
all of the scratches the 80 paper leaves disappearing


once the walls are sweet we seal them with a paintable product


and you dont even want to know how tedious a task it is to leave NO roller marks


heh


hard to believe anyone would pay by the hour for such a level of detail

but they do

few trademen ever get the chance to get good at this level of detail


but when one wants this

i get the call

bentech wrote:usually i get to do a bathroom or kitchen
rarely a whole house

first off
drywall texture is of satan
often used to try and mask the horrible taping job theyd done

first you orbital sand with 40 grit the walls
gotta take off the high spots
and they are domes of multipe paint coats
which are a serious bitch to cut into
adaquately

THEN you go after the bad tape

the corners are mostly shit as the fuckers couldnt get a decent bed of mud behind their tape so you burn into them hard

and in the field
even with mud behind their paper they still didnt get real adhesion

old mud that sat out?
heavy dust on the walls to begin with???

who knows

but

next, i shit you not

i spend DAYS taping my finder along every inch of these visible tape joints
listened for instead of a solid thump
you get a clack clack

which i mark with pencil as i work the room going for the next step

which is 'the machine'

its just a small right angle grinder
with coarsest stiff surface sanding disk

to chase these bad sections of old work

first you have to burn through the paint
even decades old that shits gummy as fuck

and christ knows how much lead im Including results for aerosolizing....
Do you want results only for Aerosolizing...?

next a milimeter or two of much then the old tape
with the overburden gone half the time it just peels off the wall

after that i burn through whatever mud was underneath it
and this grinding rig allows me to take it down the the drywall paper
without going through

leaving me with a decent trench into the walls surface

on goes the fiberglass tape
and then i start mudding these dents

at this stage its all about the 20 minute hot mud

no matter how thick you put it one you can sand it in a couple hours

the first coat is to bed that fiber tape as far down as possible
no need to sand that

next you start building up back to the walls surface

takes two or three applications to get fair

THEN

you FINALLY get on to the detail business

its takes about 3 skim coats of regular topping compound to wind up with smooth walls from there

the first 2 coats you sand out and flush with 80 grit paper

but the last one you sand with a fine grain sanding sponge

which are GENIOUS at fairing up inside corners

they also leave a fine finish on the mud
all of the scratches the 80 paper leaves disappearing


once the walls are sweet we seal them with a paintable product


and you dont even want to know how tedious a task it is to leave NO roller marks


heh


hard to believe anyone would pay by the hour for such a level of detail

but they do

few trademen ever get the chance to get good at this level of detail


but when one wants this

i get the call

I've done it. I'm not great at it but I can get through it all right. I certainly don't like doing it UNLESS I'm the first one on the job. Fixing someone else's drywall mess is a f*(@ing job!

I even know what fairing it out means. You won't find that often, Ben!

The last time I did drywall that drywall sealer didn't exist.

And the DUST...oh my!

Knock down is the way to go!

When I get to drywall, I can give ya a call, Ben?!?!



,
WHAB

[quote "WhiteHotAfterburner"]

bentech wrote:'

usually just iget to do a bathroom or kitchen
at this stage its all about the 20 minute hot mud

you FINALLY get on to the detail business
which are GENIOUS at fairing up inside corners

they also leave a fine finish on the mud
all of the scratches the 80 paper leaves disappearing

once the walls are sweet we seal them with a paintable product
and you dont even want to know how tedious a task it is to leave NO roller marks

I've done it. I'm not great
I even know what fairing it out means. You won't find that often, Ben!

WHAB[/quote]


got some sailor in you eh?s
:DD

working on balloon framed housing is downright boring compared scarfing planks to lapstrake onto a real project
early 20th century homes being of more interest that most

working with complex curving is damn intriguing

were i younger id
throw myself at the trade

bentech wrote:'

usually just iget to do a bathroom or kitchen
at this stage its all about the 20 minute hot mud

you FINALLY get on to the detail business
which are GENIOUS at fairing up inside corners

they also leave a fine finish on the mud
all of the scratches the 80 paper leaves disappearing

once the walls are sweet we seal them with a paintable product
and you dont even want to know how tedious a task it is to leave NO roller marks

I've done it. I'm not great
I even know what fairing it out means. You won't find that often, Ben!

WHAB

bentech wrote: got some sailor in you eh?s
:DD

working on balloon framed housing is downright boring compared scarfing planks to lapstrake onto a real project
early 20th century homes being of more interest that most

working with complex curving is damn intriguing

were i younger id
throw myself at the trade

I do indeed, motor boats and Cat's ... but, it is a term I first became familiar with in aviation. Engine fairings, Wing Root fairings, Landing Gear fairings and then blending surfaces together - fairing.

Coincidentally, this is a Strake-Angle on a C-17...
Working with ones hands is losing its appeal, these days.

Have you been following SV Seeker, Ben?

,
WHAB

No i havnt. Almost all planes have acquard lines when you get close to them...

rSin wrote:No i havnt. Almost all planes have acquard lines when you get close to them...

Boy, are you tellin' me!
While I was working at Muroc Army AirField (Edwards Air Force Base) I saw 2 F-117s practicing stunts for the annual air show the following day. That is an incredible sight for anyone, one I still think of this day decades later.
^ ^ ^ not actual photograph of that day - just pulled off the net.



,
WHAB

have a vivid memory of pumping gas at late sunset in wyoming and two b2 bombers having taken off quite close flew over the station at mabe 400feet with their wings at full extension...

rSin wrote:No i havnt. Almost all planes have acquard lines when you get close to them...

weird that couldnt remember even close to how awkward is spelled...

i have a pitched roof with welsh tiles ( shingles)

the other day i noticed water dripping in the bedroom ceiling, but couldn't locate wherein the roof the water came in through.. knowing the nature of water i know the leak could be actually further up on the roof but is trickling down in between the beams through the insulation and into the bedroom ceiling....

the issue is i can't locate the hole or the crack in the tile to seal it... one thing i can do is to get my nephew to use the hosepipe and sprinkle water on the roof and ill go in the loft to see if i can ee water trickling down the inside of the roof.

i was thinking of using a thermal image camera, to see if i could locate a cold spot inside and investigate it???

what you guys think!?

Shit. Every room in my house needs drywall work. This place was built around 79'- 80'. The corners are peeling bad & you can see the seams in the ceilings when the light is right.

So much to do around here, who knows when I'll be able to get around to it. I've no DW experience other than a slight bit of sanding a few decades ago (as a laborer) & yet I'm going to be learning as I go.(yikes)
Instructional YouTube videos here I come.

its generally stopped raining by the time you get to a leaking roof call
so yes out comes the hose while the other guy crawls around in the attic space trying to find the source

if its dripping your flashlight beam will find it pretty quick
but given its surface tension

the water can stick to the undersides of decending rafters and travel rather far laterally almost in invisibly from where the actual hole is where its getting in in the first place

your on the right track

light colored work gloves show when your grabbing wet wood very well

.

About 20 years ago, I had shingles laid over top of the originals. Everyone else in the neighborhood had their roofs resheathed, due to (according to local roofing CO's) recalled sheathing. Apparently the stuff they used when building these row houses, shrinks over time.

Well, it's worked out for me pretty good so far, no leaks...

I've got some leaking plumbing atm. And that's just the tip.
Name it, it's broke here.

Damn under the bathroom sink hot/cold both straight shutoff valves we're leaking. Over $20 to replace them both. So long as they work so be it.

did you go with quarter turn valves?


one plumber trick for sealing steel pipe threaded fittings is to goop the thread valleys with dope THEN wrap em several times with the teflon tape


a great trick for doing things once and for all...

any word on oldjoints?