Faced Batt Insulation Question - Wall Already Up...

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

You COULD slice the poly horizontally at the top and at the bottom. Effectively rendering the poly “breathable “. Then place the faced insulation in the void. The faced side has the additional paper where the staples hold it to the 2x4. This can be bent to underlap to the inside of the 2x4 and stapled from the exposed side. Hope that makes sense. I have found wire stays work well holding things horizontally but vertically long term I believe the insulation would sag/drop in the cavity.

That's an interesting idea as well, brother! I understand what you're saying perfectly! I've installed a good bit of this stuff, just never in this situation - open wall, Poly already on one side.

I was curious as to the holding power of the wire stays over time. In my mind, it makes sense that the insulation would sag over time.

On a positive note! Fiberglass insulation does not affect me as it does other people! I can play in it all done - nothing! One exception was I got some in the bend of my arm and was grinding it in to my skin all day! Minor irritation!

Thank you, friend! I appreciate you!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

I did a quick google 4 u

"Unfaced means the insulation lacks a vapor retarder (paper or plastic facing). Kraft-faced insulation includes a paper vapor retarder, which helps prevent mold and mildew.

Kraft-faced insulation should be installed in exterior walls, exterior basement walls, and attic ceilings by pressing the product into the wall cavity with the paper side facing outward, towards the installer. The insulation should be snug in the cavity, but not compressed. If the product needs additional support, consider using a staple gun to hold the insulation in place."

Sounds like you don't have 2 use it but you want to..

All of that is true. I appreciate you taking the time, sincerely!

However, this situation differs in that I'm creating an environment separate and apart of the Schoolhouse. I have created an isolated, artificial environment separate from the space it is within.

Those accurate descriptions and instructions don't apply to an isolation chamber.

Thank you, though! I do, sincerely, appreciate the discussion and the time taken to accomplish it on my behalf!

Note: It is 86F where I am sitting now. It is 81F in the grow space (I have not made the A/C cooler, going up to do that now). It will be 90F or higher here soon, where I am sitting. I'm hoping to keep the Girls at or below 80F :crossesfingers:. I will tough it out, the ladies hopefully won't!

,
WHAB

[mistergrafik]

When you switch to LED much of your heat issue will be controllable. But I understand you are running HID now.

I still use HID but also am not custom building.

Best of luck

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

When you switch to LED much of your heat issue will be controllable. But I understand you are running HID now.

I still use HID but also am not custom building.

Best of luck

I don't believe I'll ever be able to afford enough LED grow lights systems to fill this 6x6 (area buckets occupy) space (*see emphasis *).

I priced out enough LED lights to grow in this space a while back and I have a number around $2000 in my memory.

That 'may' have been when my plans involved building an 8x12 Flower Room in the attic.

Thank you for the discussion, Mister G!

,
WHAB

[mistergrafik]

When you switch to LED much of your heat issue will be controllable. But I understand you are running HID now.

I still use HID but also am not custom building.

Best of luck

I don't believe I'll ever be able to afford enough LED grow lights systems to fill this 6x6 (area buckets occupy) space (*see emphasis *).

I priced out enough LED lights to grow in this space a while back and I have a number around $2000 in my memory.

That 'may' have been when my plans involved building an 8x12 Flower Room in the attic.

Thank you for the discussion, Mister G!

,
WHAB

Hm.. That's interesting..

Best of luck