Air layering

[J.D.]

While it is not experimental it is still not something that would be considered to be the norm or even common. Where it comes in handy is with hard to clone strains.

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AIR LAYERING FOR DIFFICULT-TO-ROOT PLANTS


This method, believed to have been developed centuries ago by the Chinese, has been used successfully as a mean of propagating some of the more difficult-to-root plants. Because it required excessive care and patience, air layering was used only by the highly trained plantsman.

The procedure was to wound the stem or branch of a plant and enclose the wounded stem with moist sphagnum moss or similar rooting medium until roots develop from the wounded area. Success was dependent upon the ability of the propagator to keep the rooting medium moist until the roots were formed and large enough to support the new plant. Only since the development of polyethylene film has air layering become a practical method of propagation for the home gardener and amateur horticulturist.

Air layering seldom is used on plants that root easily by other less complicated methods.


With a sharp knife, make two parallel cuts about 1 1/2 inches apart around the stem and through the bark and cambium layer. Connect the two parallel cuts with one long cut and remove the ring of bark, leaving the inner woody tissue exposed.

Another way:

With a sharp knife, make a long upward cut from 1 1/2 to 2 inches long, almost to the center of the stem. Insert a wood sliver, toothpick or twisted piece of sphagnum moss into the wound to hold it open and prevent cut tissue from reuniting. At this point, the wounded area may be dusted with one of the commercial rooting compounds to speed up the rooting process. Such compounds, however, do not insure root production on difficult-to-root varieties.

Then:

Apply a handful of damp sphagnum moss so that it envelopes the wounded portion of the stem. Tying the moss in place with string helps keep it in position while completing the process. The sphagnum moss hould be soaked several hours to insure that it is thoroughly moist. Squeeze out surplus water before using, since excessive moisture will result in decay and deterioration of the plant tissue.

Using a sheet of polyethylene film approximately 6" X 12" or 8" X 12", depending upon the size of the plant stem, wrap the ball of sphagnum moss using the butchers fold to secure a tight seal where the two ends of the sheet are joined.

Draw the upper end of the film snugly around stem making sure that none of the moss is exposed. Fasten securely with electricians tape, taking care that the tape extends beyond the film and adheres to the stem. Repeat the procedure on the lower end, again making sure there is a snug fit. Moisture must not escape and excess moisture must not enter when watering or syringing the plants. Support the plant with stake or splint to prevent breakage at the wounded area.

After the new roots have penetrated the moss ball and are visible on all sides, the rooted branch may be removed from the parent plant. The rooting time will vary with plant variety as well as the season in which it is performed.

Remove the newly rooted plant from the parent plant with a sharp knife or pruning shears, making the cut just below the ball of moss and roots. Carefully remove the polyethylene film. Without disturbing the roots or removing the ball of moss, plant in a container using a good potting mixture or plant in a well-prepared soil bed.

Placing a polyethylene tent over the newly potted plant for 4 to 8 days until the root system is well established is helpful as it will aid in preventing excessive loss of moisture. Keep the plant under a light shade and avoid direct sunlight until the new root system is well developed.

Many plants are lost in the final stage of the process because the root system is not sufficiently developed to sustain the top portion of the new plant. By utilizing the plastic tent or by keeping the new plant in a humid environment, it is possible to develop a good root system on rather large cuttings. Once the plant is well established, it is best to harden off the foliage by gradually exposing it to normal atmosphere. This can be done by cutting a few holes every few days in the plastic tent to reduce the humidity until it is similar to the external atmosphere.

[PGs GossipGrrl™]

While it is not experimental it is still not something that would be considered to be the norm or even common. Where it comes in handy is with hard to clone strains.

2AL-momspot.JPG

[
AIR LAYERING FOR DIFFICULT-TO-ROOT PLANTS


This method, believed to have been developed centuries ago by the Chinese, has been used successfully as a mean of propagating some of the more difficult-to-root plants. Because it required excessive care and patience, air layering was used only by the highly trained plantsman.

The procedure was to wound the stem or branch of a plant and enclose the wounded stem with moist sphagnum moss or similar rooting medium until roots develop from the wounded area. Success was dependent upon the ability of the propagator to keep the rooting medium moist until the roots were formed and large enough to support the new plant. Only since the development of polyethylene film has air layering become a practical method of propagation for the home gardener and amateur horticulturist.

Air layering seldom is used on plants that root easily by other less complicated methods.

Thx 4 that JD, but it's not very clear what is happening by the pix included. What I'm guessing is that basically what u are trying to do is find a branch that u want to make into the clone, split the base of the (to be) clone stem, then surround that with soil to get roots started, while the original plant is still supplying needed nutrients/plant energy to keep it going. After roots show coming through the plastic, cut the rooting branch off the mother for your healthy clone, correct?

Now if that would only work well for Rhododendron . <those are tough to clone even when you put cuts in a high humidity greenhouse environment.

[J.D.]

While it is not experimental it is still not something that would be considered to be the norm or even common. Where it comes in handy is with hard to clone strains.

The attachment 2AL-momspot.JPG is no longer available

[
AIR LAYERING FOR DIFFICULT-TO-ROOT PLANTS


This method, believed to have been developed centuries ago by the Chinese, has been used successfully as a mean of propagating some of the more difficult-to-root plants. Because it required excessive care and patience, air layering was used only by the highly trained plantsman.

The procedure was to wound the stem or branch of a plant and enclose the wounded stem with moist sphagnum moss or similar rooting medium until roots develop from the wounded area. Success was dependent upon the ability of the propagator to keep the rooting medium moist until the roots were formed and large enough to support the new plant. Only since the development of polyethylene film has air layering become a practical method of propagation for the home gardener and amateur horticulturist.

Air layering seldom is used on plants that root easily by other less complicated methods.

Thx 4 that JD, but it's not very clear what is happening by the pix included. What I'm guessing is that basically what u are trying to do is find a branch that u want to make into the clone, split the base of the (to be) clone stem, then surround that with soil to get roots started, while the original plant is still supplying needed nutrients/plant energy to keep it going. After roots show coming through the plastic, cut the rooting branch off the mother for your healthy clone, correct?

Now if that would only work well for Rhododendron . <those are tough to clone even when you put cuts in a high humidity greenhouse environment.

There are several ways to do it but the two most common are basically skinning a branch or slitting a branch and inserting a small wedge of some sort to hold the slit open and then add some rooting compound, wrap the area in damp sphagnum moss and then wrap/seal in clear plastic (so you can see when roots form) and it is not a bad idea to cover the clear plastic with something dark so when roots do form the light isn’t shining on them.

It will work on rhododendron, at least it should since it not only works on cannabis plants but tons of other things like magnolia, holly, camelia, azalea and many of the fruit and nut bearing plants such as citrus, apple, pears and pecans. You would just want to use a smaller branch so there are fewer leaves looking for moisture and nutes and then do the tent thing for a while to keep in humidity after you separate the branch.

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[mistergrafik]

Beautiful Posting.

I have tried it before but now I am going to try it again... I have 100% Indica that is very difficult to root for me