temparary wall: framing and drywall tricks

bentech · Post by **bentech** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 1:39 am

closed off about 3' off the long end of a room for a small grow.
built the wall out of 2x2's. just screwed them to the walls ceiling and floor. actually, i nailed the floor plate down. screws would have ripped up the carpet.

all you need to do is predrill the wood out larger than the thread of your fastner, then slow down as it comes tight. youd be suprised how substantial a connections you can get this way. even i was impressed.

i added plywood gussets in the corners. mostly cuz of having to piece in the 2x2's.

the drywall trick is cutting it to fit the existing walls so closely that you dont need a tape joint or any drywall work there. the way to do this is to hang the sheet or place it on the floor, running it tight as you can get to the existing wall. you will instantly see that the walls isnt straight and in facts meanders in comparison to the prefectly straight side of the drywall. next, take a compass and use it to mark the meandering line of the wall onto the sheet. take it down and cut it to this line. be sure to trim off all the gypsum so that the paper on the finish side is the longest project and then put it back. you easily get a seam so close all it will need is a bead of caulk. you will thus only need to mud the screw heads and the tape joints in the field.

you will be happy you did it this way when comes time to disassemble the wall. course, you will have to mess with that caulk bead. if i had this to do over, i would take extra care to get a fit so close it didnt even need the caulk. would have saved the painting and wallboard touchup needed to deal with it after these sheets came down.

bentech · Post by **bentech** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 1:51 am

the framing...

bentech · Post by **bentech** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 2:04 am

had to build a jamb to fit an existing door that matched the room in.
always a pain in the ass

figured id solve the light leak issue by using an exterior jamb which had its own weatherstripping. super extra pain in the ass AND!!!

when it was done it didnt seal well. the door was solid core but still an interior; only 1 1/2" thick compared to an exterior doors 1 3/4". that quarter inch was enough to prevent the gasket [ removed in the picture during jamb instalation ] from getting a good fit so i still had to add extra weatherstripping to make it work.

was worth it though having that step in the jamb. in the picture, ive just realize i forgot to cut a extra bit of the jambs top stripping notch back. with it installed, the fix was to use a sharp chisel and hammer that bit out.

the stripping fits into that groove and it needs to continue uninterrupted around that corner.

dill786 · Post by **dill786** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 5:31 pm

you work is neat and tidy Ben. the plasterboard is really neat.

BAMF · Post by **BAMF** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:16 pm

what ever happened inside the room?

bentech · Post by **bentech** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:30 pm

a med users first grow.
4 plants in soil under 1000 watts in 3x3
no luck with seeds or cloning
did real good with store bought clones.

three harvests and then moved
the room is gone

never happened

MadMoonMan · Post by **MadMoonMan** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 9:31 pm

1000 watts is to much for 4 plants in a 3 x 3

I'm getting ready to switch to 600w 12 12 on 24

chemo and wr

oops im partying man sorry I thought this was the wood building things thread

MadMoonMan · Post by **MadMoonMan** » Fri Dec 21, 2012 9:39 pm

I have a trimming and sheetrock I have to do on an inside door. You helped a lot bud.

Especially, now I have cold air leaking in.

Winter comes forcefully at its will.

BAMF · Post by **BAMF** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 1:30 am

111 wpsf is too much???

Lies MadMan... All lies...

Dick Fein · Post by **Dick Fein** » Sat Dec 22, 2012 7:25 am

A couple things come to mind. A little masking tape on the wall where you are caulking will make it easy to remove later and steel stud is more versatile than wood framing.