Which forum has threatened to ban you?dequelo wrote:[
Admin just told me I was a Fucking Smarts Ass and I said tell me something I do not already
know :)I will be banned soon enough,
Dequilo
want to build some LEDs need help please :)
want to build some LEDs need help please :)
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
Jes joking around, Idle Hands. ~Banned
I was thinking if I could grow from an LED panel from a lithium battery that I charge from a solar panel.
Be cool to have solar grown pot.
I was thinking if I could grow from an LED panel from a lithium battery that I charge from a solar panel.
Be cool to have solar grown pot.
- dequelo
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
that was me at ICFag when Karma Girl bannedBanned wrote:Yes
all of them 'em
be safe and stay free
Dequilo
said not nice things to Dutch Blown
be safe and stay free
Dequilo
Marx Defined The Classes, Kalashnikov Made Them Equal
Better to be Judged by Twelve than Carried by Six
"It is easier to rob by setting up a bank, than by holding up a bank clerk."
Better to be Judged by Twelve than Carried by Six
"It is easier to rob by setting up a bank, than by holding up a bank clerk."
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
Bridgelux are good strips for the money. I can help you design a fixture.
So typical wattage for each 4' strip is about 27W. However, those strips can be maxed out to around 57W. You might want to drive them somewhere in-between – around 35-40W
For veg and transition you're going to want around 20-25W per square foot. You've got 128 square feet (16' x 8'), so that's around 2560-3200W. You mentioned a figure of 2400W, which is feasable, but I would build some headroom into your design so that if you need more power you'll have it on tap.
You'll need some form of heatsink and backing for those strips. The 4' strips are very flexible, so you need to screw them to some aluminium extrusion (build yourself a frame) to stop them bending in the middle. The alloy extrusion will also act as a heatsink.
If you use 8x Mean Well HLG-320H-42A or AB drivers, then you will have 2560W+. You will actually have close to 2800W, as the 320 drivers output more than their rating (up to 350W each).
So based on all the above, you will need 8x individual 4'x'4 frames, with each frame driven by a 320 driver. Each frame will require 8x Bridgelux strips. This will give you a maximum rating for each frame of around 460W – which is well under the maximum output of the 320 drivers. At 320W, each strip will be working at around 70% of capacity, which is a pretty nice figure.
The 8 strips in each frame will need to be wired in parallel so that you can use the 42V driver. I always wire in parallel because if you wire in series you will end up with potentially 320V DC in the circuit, which is dangerous.
Once you've read all this, let me know if it suits your needs and we can progress a bit further. I've built loads of LED strips. I also design LED boards. These are mine <SPAM ALERT!> http://www.growlightsaustralia.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
So typical wattage for each 4' strip is about 27W. However, those strips can be maxed out to around 57W. You might want to drive them somewhere in-between – around 35-40W
For veg and transition you're going to want around 20-25W per square foot. You've got 128 square feet (16' x 8'), so that's around 2560-3200W. You mentioned a figure of 2400W, which is feasable, but I would build some headroom into your design so that if you need more power you'll have it on tap.
You'll need some form of heatsink and backing for those strips. The 4' strips are very flexible, so you need to screw them to some aluminium extrusion (build yourself a frame) to stop them bending in the middle. The alloy extrusion will also act as a heatsink.
If you use 8x Mean Well HLG-320H-42A or AB drivers, then you will have 2560W+. You will actually have close to 2800W, as the 320 drivers output more than their rating (up to 350W each).
So based on all the above, you will need 8x individual 4'x'4 frames, with each frame driven by a 320 driver. Each frame will require 8x Bridgelux strips. This will give you a maximum rating for each frame of around 460W – which is well under the maximum output of the 320 drivers. At 320W, each strip will be working at around 70% of capacity, which is a pretty nice figure.
The 8 strips in each frame will need to be wired in parallel so that you can use the 42V driver. I always wire in parallel because if you wire in series you will end up with potentially 320V DC in the circuit, which is dangerous.
Once you've read all this, let me know if it suits your needs and we can progress a bit further. I've built loads of LED strips. I also design LED boards. These are mine <SPAM ALERT!> http://www.growlightsaustralia.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
BTW, love your avatar – from a fellow anarchist.
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- dequelo
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
Prawn Connery wrote:BTW, love your avatar – from a fellow anarchist.
Why Thank you
I use this one a lot also
more of a red/black flag Unionist
Labor without a voice is nothing but slaves
all the best and be safe
Dequilo
Marx Defined The Classes, Kalashnikov Made Them Equal
Better to be Judged by Twelve than Carried by Six
"It is easier to rob by setting up a bank, than by holding up a bank clerk."
Better to be Judged by Twelve than Carried by Six
"It is easier to rob by setting up a bank, than by holding up a bank clerk."
- dequelo
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
I was thinking about using this driver PWM-120-48 with with three BXEB-L1120Z-50E4000-C-B3 and run the strips at like 35 watts each
over a 2 foot by 4 foot shelf to veg small plants
all the best and be safe
dequilo
over a 2 foot by 4 foot shelf to veg small plants
all the best and be safe
dequilo
Marx Defined The Classes, Kalashnikov Made Them Equal
Better to be Judged by Twelve than Carried by Six
"It is easier to rob by setting up a bank, than by holding up a bank clerk."
Better to be Judged by Twelve than Carried by Six
"It is easier to rob by setting up a bank, than by holding up a bank clerk."
- Prawn Connery
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Karma Bhudda
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
I would use the BXEB-L1120Z-40E4000-C-B3 – 4000K is a much better alround spectrum in CRI80 than 5000K for general growth, especially in the Bridgelux series. 4000K will give you more red and cyan. We've done side-by-sides comparing 4000K to 5000K and 4000K beats it every time.
The main issue with the PMW-120-48 is that it is a 48V driver and those strips are 41V max. Unlike LEDs, drivers tend to get more efficient at maximum operating power, and that driver will only be working at about 80% capacity. It will max the current out at 2.5A, but you will be leaving voltage on the floor.
The PMW series is only 90% efficient – the HLG-320 series is 95% efficient. The PMW-120 costs about US$53 for less than 100W, while the HLG-320 costs about US$90 for up to 350W. The PMW has a five-year warranty, the HLG a seven-year warranty.
So the HLG is better value, more efficient, more robust (metal case vs plastic) and has a longer warranty. You will also have fewer drivers to manage.
If you only want to drive three strips, then the HLG-100H-42A will do the job and is a litle cheaper. It will max out at about 130W, unlike the PMW-120 which will max out at under 100W (due to the lower voltage requirements of the strips). The only reason to go with the PMW is if you want wireless dimming etc
The main issue with the PMW-120-48 is that it is a 48V driver and those strips are 41V max. Unlike LEDs, drivers tend to get more efficient at maximum operating power, and that driver will only be working at about 80% capacity. It will max the current out at 2.5A, but you will be leaving voltage on the floor.
The PMW series is only 90% efficient – the HLG-320 series is 95% efficient. The PMW-120 costs about US$53 for less than 100W, while the HLG-320 costs about US$90 for up to 350W. The PMW has a five-year warranty, the HLG a seven-year warranty.
So the HLG is better value, more efficient, more robust (metal case vs plastic) and has a longer warranty. You will also have fewer drivers to manage.
If you only want to drive three strips, then the HLG-100H-42A will do the job and is a litle cheaper. It will max out at about 130W, unlike the PMW-120 which will max out at under 100W (due to the lower voltage requirements of the strips). The only reason to go with the PMW is if you want wireless dimming etc
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want to build some LEDs need help please :)
The PLED120W-043-C2800 from that catalogue would work with three strips – looks good on paper. If you want dimming, then PLED120W-043-C2800-DOldjoints wrote:As far as drivers for those strips:
https://hubbellcdn.com/catalogfull/TRP% ... atalog.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The only problem is they don't appear to be widely available, so not sure about the price.
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