myPlanetGanja.com

Irwin,s skeptical
you better send him a light to prove your point.

June 13. You know I grow ghetto and don't spend money on s***. I don't even have a pH meter, I use tap water and s***my nutes are blood piss and lemon juice. Don't Jack my thread or I go full-blown BLM on your ass

These r my vegging bulbs prawn. Some guy gave them to me for free. They have little color dots just like yours.

I don't want to keep spamming the place up (I'm already doing a pretty good job!), but if you guys are interested in any LED stuff you'll definitely be looked after. We're not in a position to start giving them away just yet, but we can offload them close to cost price for you guys if you want to try them to compare with what you already have.

Here are some photos I took the other day of a CMH/LED mixed room. The LED in the photos is one of ours.

The water pumps made the water too warm and she got root rot. Change to an aquarium air pump hopefully she'll recover.

Totally boss thread Irwin. Hope she recovers. Kinda not making a good case for hydroisbetter.
Check out these buddage using prawn's leds

finishing nicely...

Combustible herbargy wrote:Totally boss thread Irwin. Hope she recovers. Kinda not making a good case for hydroisbetter.
Check out these buddage using prawn's leds

That's awesome! It just goes to show that our LEDs are fool-proof – they truly exploit every grower's innate talents!

Irwin the Troll wrote:The water pumps made the water too warm and she got root rot. Change to an aquarium air pump hopefully she'll recover.

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What was the deal with the pond pump? Did you have a waterfall effect inside the bucket to aerate it, or were you just using the pump to circulate water?

Aeration is obviously the key to DWC, and most people think it's the bubbles that blow through the nutrient solution that saturates the water with oxygen. But nearly all the oxygen exchange is at the surface, and happens when the bubbles burst and break the surface tension of the water, allowing the oxygen to be dissolved.

It's been a while since I did DWC, but the other trick to start new clones or seedlings – if you're not already doing it – is to keep the rockwool suspended above the waterline. If you are now using an air pump and aquarium stone, you need the rockwool cube and the basket it sits in to sit in the region just above the surface where the bubbles burst and create a fine mist of oxygenated water (like the effervescent bubbles on top of a glass of soda). That will give the roots the best start.

You also want to keep temperatues as best you can between 15C and 21C. Cold water lacks metabolic warmth which slows root growth. Warm water is less dense than cold water and does not absorb as much oxygen. The warmer the water gets, the less oxygen it dissolves and that is what leads to root rot. Pythium root rot thrives in anaerobic conditions and breeds exponentially faster in warm water. If your water is consistently above 25C, it can be a problem, but you can still manage DWC as long as you have lots of aeration to compensate.

See? It's a good thing you didn't eat me, because sometimes shrimp come in handy!

I live in a tin can in a swamp, so temperature has always been my DWC challenge. The pond pump I was using was pumping water up above the surface and falling back down to create maximum surface exposure. THis particular time the water was jetting very close to the rockwool cube, and was running 24/7. Pump friction heated the water to an unsafe level. I have moved it into a smaller bucket, with the air stone. I haven't had this issue in quite a while, I guess I got unvigilant about heat. The room's target temperature is 76, but in the heat of the day, the room hits close to 80F which is of course moving into the danger zone. I've alway's grown hydro. Soil here always gets infested with root aphids, spider mites, fungus gnats, whiteflies and other vermin.
I've got a 2nd seed if this plant doesn't recover, and that's fine, because I wouldn't mind leaving town for a week or two later this summer, and not having a grow in progress will be less stressful.
And.... hydroisbetter... or at least faster, when done properly.

This is GG4 at 25 days.
You can see there is a bit of healthy tap root , which is promising.

""Soil here always gets infested with root aphids, spider mites, fungus gnats, whiteflies and other vermin.""

Understood. Makes me count my blessing.

I grow in hot climates in Australia without aircon and coco is the best compromise there is. Almost the same growth as hydro but more reliable and not as affected by heat. There are a lot of advantages to run-to-waste coco.

I used Coco a couple years back. Good shit.

I'm surprised little Irwin can keep his dick out of it!

I know this isn't the incredible bulk but this gorilla glue 4 deserve some serious p***
Days: who the fuck knows.
I do know, I am an impatient farmer, who usually can't make the 60 day mark. I think this went to 12/12 on 5 26 so....day 52 or something. Unlike many previous grows, this one is not needed as I have it's little sister at 51 days, and still a few grams of SSL from the last run. I have a theory about my root rot. Maybe covid has triggered the ultraviolet radiation of imported shit. I dunno. I cant seem to get a seed to make it past 2 weeks and I'm on beano #5. I always get my bitches up and growing, so I'm really in dismay about this streak of ill luck.