Munchy wrote:many miticides work via plant absorption, as opposed to direct contact.
but i figured when my old sprayer quit doing the mist right,
the little fuckers might be able to tiptoe around the treated spots,
like it was a little minefield. and i'd rather not use any wetting agent,
and i think i shouldn't need to, if the mister is doing it's job right.
~GUANO~ wrote:I've used Azatrol in my freinds rooms before, they need to make smaller bottles, the smallest size I've seen was about $80 and it was about 20x more then needed for the job....I also used it outside a few years back for some unknown bugs with no luck.
there's all kinds of deals going on @ ebay for under $20, to buy it now & w/free shipping.
"
many miticides work via plant absorption", not particularly accurate, but I guess an ignoramus like Merry might get the basic inference...or not
. That's kind of like something benji or Prawn would say; which would tell someone like UB or myself, ya don't really understand very well :0
Actually Munchy, *you* the applicator needs to do the job 'right'
. Ie, if you miss a spot, ur @fault, not the mister. Most difficult to find now, the 1gal sprayers with brass wand that had a nozzle which could rotate 360º to spray @any angle. Most just have a brass wand/nozzle tilted to an angle leaving you to need to twist your hand to get the correct angles to apply to *all* leaf surfaces as well as *soil*.
Not sure why Munchy is acting like ~G~ (or a sock of the real ~G) is some kind of grow master. UB knows more than this poster in this thread---ya wanner learn something M, go see UB on RIU. Hell ~G on PG, didn't even understand cantaloupes grown in Mexico on a certain thread I guess Munchy missed (ask PG TrollMod™ benji, he remembers).
Perhaps Munch, ~G is referring to manufacturer's *orig* containers being too large, as the one's ur finding on ebay are just a seller putting into smaller bottles, as this link states:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 602_263622
next link to Calif hydro e-tailer also breaks the larger quantity containers into minute amounts for 'residential' vs 'commercial' users which is what the manufacturer targets these products for...commercial ag uses.
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Hydro-Source ... op=2&_sc=1
*note* on Attain fogger, instructions on 1.5-3k sq/ft rooms, for smaller rooms the concentration could damage weaker plants. I forget if it was OpG, probably TCC, I could only find one brand of pyrethrin fogger than was pure pyrethrin w/o the added synergistic Piperonyl butoxide compound...something to consider, depends on how many syn or 'natural' chemicals ur comfortable with. With a fogger, you might gain the upper hand on hidden mites in a room. But U might still have to deal with 'winter' egg populations hatching in warmer weather.
Learn, not buy going to TCC or listening to ~G who *cannot* guarantee you'll never get mites again via that simplistic regimen above which clearly shows a lack of understanding about mite lifecycles/propagation. But by doing simple homework via the internet...so easy, even a caveman can do it.
Azatrol/Azamax = Neem oil derived
IPM uses *rotation* to prevent resistance, since mites can go through upwards of 8 generations (5-days only under optimal conditions for the 2-spotted mite).
http://nathist.sdstate.edu/orchids/Pests/mites.htm
^Good read, specific to orchids, but general info on mites/control methods is instructive.
^keep in mind, while they say that insecticides are mostly poor on mites, because mites are not insects, I can assure you malathion will kill mites dead! I had the dreaded webbing all over the chicken wire and leaves of the Babcock tree my mother has in a 20gal pot, sprayed at higher rec'd concentration, killed all those suckas dead early Nov, in time to harvest three, 2nd crop, peaches in late November (cause unlike UB, I'm a master fruit gardener who gets late 2nd crop peaches to ripen in all the way up to winter)- tasted better than the June/July main harvest.
Always try to test any new spray on your plants becuz you never know if you'll damage or stress them. Even the lower doze of Malathion will damage even mature raspberry leaves...from personal experience; while similar species, blackberry leaves are unaffected by same.
Another point, is whether or not you use a wetting agent, you have *no* idea if any of these are safe to breath in via combustion byproducts. Any number of 'safe' on food/fruit crop chemicals, "organic" or not, have never been tested for safety as far as smoking...unless you can find literature on tobacco products...and would you trust a tobacco study anyway? I'm sure there are many compounds you can ingest by eating them which have not effect on your lungs...if you know what I mean
.
If you can get by with lesser mite management, ie, spraying with cool water, and not using anything else...is it not better?
Link Munchy 'forgot' to post, the chart ~G has never seen b4:
http://www.canr.msu.edu/vanburen/fermite.htm
^If you reuse your soil, and mites have laid eggs in there, come spring or whenever temps get above ~50F, you'll have mites hatching, don't believe what ~G tells you. So you got mite infested clones from somewhere else, this is hardly the *only* vector for introducing mites into an indoor grow.
Last paragraph in above link is especially important, on TCC it was mentioned that improper use of Avid has resulted in resistance in some mites, in Nor. Cal. ...I don't recall details, probably not much provided.
Miticides with different modes of action should be rotated within a season or from season to season to delay the development of resistance. Once resistance to a miticide has developed through selection pressure and the miticide is no longer used, the mite population will regress from homozygous resistance to heterozygous resistance. Therefore, a miticide to which resistance was developed some years ago can often be effective again if employed only once in a season. It generally requires a few generations for the mites to regain resistance when exposed to repeated applications of the miticide. Such miticides could be effectively used in a rotation of miticides with different modes of action.
UB said on PG, anyone who says they've never had mites is either a liar, or they haven't grown MJ. Knock on wood, I'm not a liar and I've grown many a crop over the yrs indoors (with plenty of mites all over the place outside---mites love roses & fruit tree leaves; been lucky, no mites, lots of fungus gnats).
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2012.html
Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite overwinters as adult females resting in protected places.
Twospotted Spider Mite
The twospotted spider mite is an example of a 'warm season' mite. This pest has been reported from over 180 host plants including field crops, ornamental plants, house plants and weeds.
The females overwinter in the soil or on host plants. The females become active in April and May when they seek out the undersides of leaves on suitable hosts. Each female may lay over 100 eggs. A single generation may require as much as 20 to as few as five days, depending on the temperature. These mites prefer hot, dry weather and often do not reach damaging populations in cool, rainy periods.
In the summer, the adults and nymphs are white with two greenish spots. However, overwintering females usually turn reddish-orange and can be mistaken for other mite species.
Pro tip to Munchy, instead of whining about JF like the mind-numbingly dense & boring Merry, try ignoring his posts, ie don't feed the trolls, JF lives for your
response to his posts...like I ignore the duplicitous hypocrite UR when you join Smokes in a gangbang site-wide trolling of a member via site-wide sticky thread...what do U think a new member is going to see when they read that thread, Smokes & U lead by example showing all new (potential) members what they can be subjected to, TOU & rules *only* apply to some, site politics as usual...man you guys are clueless!
<holds up mirror to Munchy...all Munchy can see is how pretty he thinks he is...like TCC's Kendo>
Ya, I know, could have broken a long post into dozen 1-2 liners...sorry, no time, too lazy for that, lol
After a while, people are just going to ignore it, like I did, like I do most TV commercials.
