WHAB: Still Forming Woodworking Shop & Future Grow Residence

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looking good my friend, I've installed a few of those attic stairs in my younger days. the worst is when you have a 9 or 10 foot ceiling. Heavy awkward and unwieldy.. in short they suck! I'm sure your glad that's done. I tip my hat to you ,nice job.

Hey there BB!

"Heavy awkward and unwieldy"...ah, you are experienced!

This one was a little tough only because while it wasn't 9 or 10 high, that loft space is shorter than I stand. I was hunched over for nearly every minute of it. My back was cussing me out every minute of it!

Yes, extremely glad that is done! Just amazed no one saw a need for one prior to my putting one in, IF only for light storage. But, I was also the first one that saw a need for ceiling lights!

Now I need to get a piece of Luan (just as a test piece and I know there is some around here) to see what I can get up that attic ladder in one piece. I'm hoping 4x8s, but I don't know.

Thank you for your kind words also, my friend! I appreciate that!

I hope you're well and fine!



,
WHAB

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i have found that a good massage worked better than a chiropractor.
you might want to give that a try. take care

I hear ya, my friend! I'll bring it up the next time I get the chance.

Thank you, Lrus!

,
WHAB

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The ground was thawed, the rocks were not!

When I got back from my COVID vaccine shot we tackled the mailbox (would have been nice to have had when they shoved nearly 19lbs of Mega Crop fertilizer in the old one! ).

I made the mailbox post on my brother's antique Stanley Mitre Box when I didn't have any of my tools here. The joint is half-lapped. It came out pretty well (Dang! I just noticed the stainless steel pyramid cap didn't get put on the post...gonna have to get that done!). The mailbox is attached to the post by a piece of nearly 100 year old Oak flooring joist out of the 1924 Schoolhouse. Still need to tamp the ground around it down some more. A beautiful day outdoors!

I tried to find these V V V locally. No avail. I tried 4 or 5 local "building supply" establishments I got these while I was 'in town' (a place nearly 1 hour away) getting my shot (1/2 hour total time (Including 15 minute hold), very efficient operation - Thank you VAMC!)...

Just waiting on the AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6” Inline Duct Fan to match it up with! . I see it is sitting in that 'town' mentioned above. Hoping it will make it here tomorrow instead of Monday as Amazon and UPS are showing in their tracking.

Gonna get the loft cleaned up, along with the bench in the picture and the woodshop in general - more specifically, the loft, though....it's still thrashed.

Also, preparing to close up the space after getting the ventilation installed (it's sitting at 80°F with it opened up and that booster ran running). I'm still pondering how to increase the space, at least to the North wall, and close it up. 2 more days at max before I do close it up and switch the ladies to Veg. The first ones I put in the Ebb&Gro are coming around after I failed at trying to kill them! . The one Tangerine Dream x C99 is bushing out!

,
WHAB

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Topped'er off!

My neighbors came out to check out my work!

They Mooed in approval and just kept busily noshing away!

,
WHAB

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I've been dealing with my back issues since my last post. I did get my first line of security in place Saturday evening, a Schlage Double Cylinder Deadbolt. I still have to install the aftermarket Reinforced Striker Plate...just need to mortise it in. It uses 6 long screws that reach through the door jamb and in to the Jack Stud.

IF you are unfamiliar (I know I've mentioned it here before, a refresher, then! ), a Double Cylinder Deadbolt uses a key on both sides of the door. I have installed several in places where I have lived.

IF a thief does gain entry into your space, they'll pile up their loot at the door but when they try to exit out that door (or any door so equipped) they realize they need a key, which they don't have, to get out. They are left with having to exit out their entry point (other than that door, if that door is their attempted entry point they'll realize sooner than they can't even get in), most often empty handed.

I did vacuum the thrashed loft. Still have some minor detail work to complete the clean up. Will try and get that done tonight.

Then, I did receive the "AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6, Quiet 6” Inline Duct Fan with Temperature Humidity Controller" this afternoon.

However, I'm sure it doesn't mean anything but, the User Manual arrived upside down...I'm hoping it's not a omen of bad things!

I bought both metal (plumbing tape) and plastic hanger straps. I think I'll use the plastic strapping because it is less likely to wear into the ducting whereas metal strapping (plumbing tape) certainly will over time. IF I do wind up using the plumbing tape I'll line it with rubber to reduce the potential of wearing through.

So, I am going to get that installed today.

I'm still pondering how I'm going to close this space up. My Thought Process Machine is having a difficult time getting everything laid out to make sure all the equipment/gear can still be serviceable. Once I have that tall East wall installed the Ebb&Gro controller will be difficult to get to. I would like to put the Air Conditioner right next to where the controller is now and route the Intake&Exhaust hoses out the ceiling panel there as well. But, when that East wall is installed they'll both be difficult to get to to service them. I don't want either one IN the grow space. It looks like I will have to build in an access panel/door on that wall to get to them. I can't move them to the West side of the space because the reservoir is directly under the controller now and that is the best place to have that. I still have time to figure that out but I need move the A/C to that side and I still have to figure out a way to block a light leak created where the Fill&Drain hoses pass through the P&S (Poly Shield) sheeting.

One possibility is to lay a piece of plush cloth (like a bath towel) on top of the hoses where it passes through to the buckets and put a piece of wood on to of it the force the shape of the pass through (I think this will work). Another possibility I've been toying with is creating a physical manifold cover plate with the 6 hoses individually surrounded...like at wooden plate with cut-outs for each hose (I think this is what I will wind up with). Maybe a combination of both the cloth closure and the hose pass-through plate.

IF any of you have any ideas on how to best prevent that potential light leak I'd be willing to consider them.

I'm goin' in!

,
WHAB

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I have tentatively routed the AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 Inline Duct Fan out the East side. I don't want it out the East side. I want to go out the West side, the "back yard". The East side is the front of the 1924 Schoolhouse. But, that useless, Tits-On-A-Bull Strong-back is in the way of running the ducting level with the elbow. I suppose I could go over the strong-back but it doesn't work in my brain....it's not the optimum way to run it. Air prefers to move in a straight line. I'm going to leave it like this temporarily but I'm likely to change it to go out the West side.

This also introduces another down the road problem. Wherever I put that duct in the attic I won't be able to build on top of it without losing head room in the future attic setup.

That gray hose is from my Dust Collection system...I have another longer piece of 6 inch DC hose (clear) if I need it. I didn't want to cut into the new AC Infinity ducting that will reach out to the end of that run, either the East of West sides.

The plastic strapping will work well in this instance...

When I set this up in the loft I knew I'd only do one or two full Veg and Flowering cycles in the loft then move it all up in to the attic when I can get that built.

I'll have to plan the builds and changes in a way that I won't be stepping on my own foot, so to speak.

When I went up there for the first time tonight the Air Temp was 80°F....soon after the fan was operational, it dropped down to 77°F. As you can see in the last picture, it's down to 74°F.

The second bucket and the fifth bucket are from the first transplant. The second bucket is one I was sure would die. It's hangin' tough!

The others are from the second transplant of plants I was sure were dead. They don't look like it in the picture but they are still alive.
I think this fan is exactly what I needed to keep the temps in check!

I only have the fan controller hanging upside temporarily. I will mount it properly when I get the installation completed, even if I have to build a mount for it attached to the ceiling.

I would like to be able to monitor what is going on up there from down here! That Hygrometer sitting in the bucket used to sit on my desk and the remote sensor that paired with it stayed in the grow but that sensor gave up the ghost years ago. I'll see if I can find a replacement for it. IF I can't find a replacement sensor I'll try to buy another hygrometer.

I'd still like to see that AC Infinity fan remotely...but, unless I get a video camera up there (something I don't own) I don't think that will be possible, at least for now.

Gonna work on that closeout manifold for the controller hoses.

,
WHAB

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Well that went better than I thought it would!

For some reason, probably because I've never used it here in the 1924 Schoolhouse, I only thought of my Bosch Router as an afterthought, when other options did not present themselves.

I made them longer slots than the hose is thick because I think the 3/4 inch plywood step-down will cover the opening of the slot on the bottom. I may have to add blocks to support the manifold plate.

Not an optimum setup, either....but it worked well enough!

I haven't tried it yet - :crossedfingers:

Here goes!

,
WHAB

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

It worked. It could be improved. The slots could be longer. I'll likely do that while I have the router set up.

But, after I put a blanket on top of the P&S on top of the hoses inside the space it completely blocked the light.

I feel better about closing the space in with that serious light leak remedied! There was no point in moving forward with closing it in if I couldn't close that leak.



,
WHAB

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I did route the slots longer. But, it looks like the manifold plate probably wasn't necessary at all. With the plush towel weighted down on the inside it looks like that is blocking the light leak all by itself.

Even knowing that, I made the slots deeper anyway!

The slots could go a little deeper still. Maybe or maybe not! Of course I will!

,
WHAB

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You would not believe how difficult this is doing this with only one person....wow! Besides handling about 12 foot of 6 foot wide material, doing it hunched over makes it twice as difficult, at least for me.

First I had to move the A/C unit. Instead of cutting that P&S away and running new P&S I just pivoted what I already had. It's not perfect but it will do for now. Until I get that long, East wall up.

I cut a hole in the ceiling panel for the exhaust duct. The other hole to the right was where the hard-wired smoke alarm used to reside. Once I put that East wall up both of those holes will have to be blocked off. I've been keeping the cut out pieces for that purpose. I 'think' I'm going to cut another hole for the A/C Intake hose. I thought I had some 5 inch ducting hose. I don't. I have 4 inch ducting hose. I do have 3 pieces of 8 or 10 feet hard ducting.

Then the view with it roughed in...

This is what it looked like when I got it pivoted and the existing P&S roughed in. There is a wall-mount oscillating fan laying on the floor. It is now mounted to a stretcher board on that North wall that I had to make to avoid trying to hang the fan on the concrete (stucco). I thought I had taken a picture of it. Looks like I didn't. I ran the plastic on that North wall and mounted the fan on top of that.

Then running the new P&S out and installing the Adhesive Backed VivoSun Zipper. I had to tuck the extra foot or so of the zipper under the plastic. I'm sure to trip on it!

I finished taping and stapling the loose cut ends of the plastic on the inside. I have to take care of some final light-proofing and will flip them to Veg at 12pm tomorrow. Lights off will be from 12pm to 6pm.

Back at it!



,
WHAB

[bentech]

you should SERIOUSLY frame some of the knotholes...

[bentech]

do those kinda drywall repairs all the time

we cut a wide strip of plywood that will just fit up into the hole
than lay its across above and run a pair of screws in each end on either side of the hole

cut your patch a bit underside so you can butter its edges
and the holes

if its the piece that actually came out

hit its edges with an agressive rasp


room for the butter...

[WhiteHotAfterburner]

do those kinda drywall repairs all the time

we cut a wide strip of plywood that will just fit up into the hole
than lay its across above and run a pair of screws in each end on either side of the hole

cut your patch a bit underside so you can butter its edges
and the holes

if its the piece that actually came out

hit its edges with an agressive rasp


room for the butter...

Hey Ben!

Yeah, I've done those drywall repairs too. Fists or doorknob holes, mostly. Not my fist or my doorknob holes. I know better. I especially know better than to punch a fucking wall!

IF I have to patch them, yes...I accept your guidance.

I'm not satisfied with these Luan ceiling panels. I want to replace all of it. IF I have to keep the Luan I'm still going to rework the trim and make it more like a lattice type ceiling...I'm not sure what to call it. I've called it lattice ceiling...but that doesn't seem like the right name.

Like this...

As soon as I acquire a device from which to reach this 11-1/2 foot ceiling, that is

Thanks, Ben!

,
WHAB

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I tried to get up here last night to close the known light leaks...

I couldn't get a proper foothold. Sketchy as hell! You can see the light leak in the corner above the A/C unit. Most of that was from staple holes from relocating that P&S plastic from where it was to where it is now.

I borrowed a ladder this morning and got it done...*gonna have to get me one of them there things! *

I turned off the light so I could plug it into the Intermatic timer...

While the light was out I took a picture. Reminder - I screwed up. These plants probably shouldn't be alive at all. The plant just to the right of the Hygrometer is the one I thought was dead when I made the first transplant. It didn't die! The really wee ones are from the second transplant - they're still alive, somehow!

There are 4 from the first transplant that are doing well, considering what I put them through. 2 more are trying hard!

Also, I noticed over the past 2 days that they were droopy. I think that's probably related to the high PPMs, which I questioned when I first mixed it up. I used the Mega Crop vegetative stage recipe that wound up registering 1000ppm. I diluted the nutes. I knocked it down to EC 1.4 (700 ppm) (still too high, imo). pH is as 5.9.

Also while I had the light off I happened to reach in there for the timer that I was keeping plugged into a power strip that is now inside the space and I noticed the seam I had taped previous was leaking. I would not have known that if I had not turn the light off.

The first time that timer has been put to work in more than a decade (see emphasis below ) Somehow that timer has stayed with me through most of my moves (I think it was all my moves but I don't recall exactly), it's been plugged in for most of that time.

I knotted the one cord around the other cord of the light to act as a 'strain relief'. I'll work on something better. I noticed when I first plugged the light into the timer the other day that the plug weighted the timer down on one side.

***I started this before lights out. I wanted to report that the light was in fact off. The light didn't go out. I've been up there this whole time trying to figure it out ***

Gonna get back at it

,
WHAB

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Just a couple of things...

First; 2 weeks ago someone noticed my AcuRite Hygrometer in a picture I posted, with them telling me they had the exact same unit. I told them, yeah, I've had it more than a decade and I really like it. I bought it when I first started growing. I liked that I could see the conditions in the grow space without being in the space. One grow was in a crawl-space under a house that belonged to the owner of the property - I was just renting. But I lost that remote sensor when it quit working a few years ago and I told that person that I was going to try to find a replacement. After a good deal of research AcuRite's "Compatibility List" said a new 06002M remote sensor was the correct replacement. None of the lists I found included the W at the end of my model's alpha-numeric code, a 00592W. None of the models in the list had a letter extension.

I tried to get it to pair up every way possible. I couldn't do it.

After my failed research, and my failed attempts to force it to work, I contacted AcuRite for assistance. I spent a great deal of time with them. They said I'd have to buy another main unit or go through Amazon for a refund. I then asked them to send me a compatible Hygrometer I could use with the new remote sensor I just bought. They weren't going for it! I tried! I finally got them to give me a 15% discount code good for 30 days on any purchase. I do own a few of their products.

One of the products of theirs that I own is their 5-in-1 Weather Station. The 01050 model. A few years ago I was informed the WiFi interface that I had that went with that weather station was being discontinued BUT that I could get a deal on the newest version of it. I bought it.

After all my research and an extended conversation with the Chat support, who never mentioned what I found. I went searching again determined there must be a way to see what was going on in the grow space without climbing into the loft every time.

I discovered the new remote sensor does pair with that new(er) AcuRite WiFi interface and I could see that remote sensor on my MyAcurite "Dashboard" on my desktop PC and the MyAcurite smartphone app.

Second; I built a frame for the Doran DV-99 Light Tight Darkroom Louver (vent) TWICE that is going in the grow space.

The fail...I tried to use one Kreg Pocket Hole screw coming from the wrong direction. I thought it would work, it didn't. The joint was loose and wonky. I didn't like it a bit.

The success...a typical Kreg joint.

The final product...

The reason for any of this post: I wanted to show the Doran Light Tight vent frame and it's installation AND to include the new AcuRite remote sensor. When I looked at the remote sensor on my PC to get a screenshot to post I saw that the temps were lower than what I would expect to see in a Lights On condition. The temps were way too low for the light to be on. I went up to the loft and the dang light is off. It shouldn't be off. I told the timer to turn the light off from 12pm to 6pm. I checked the programming and that's what I see. I don't know why the light is off. I don't know how long the light will be off.

Without the new remote sensor and my finding out how to use it on my own, without help from AcuRite, I would not have known the light was off....I was going to bed!

Now, I have an appointment later today that I have to get up for a in a few hours. I won't be around for most of the day. I won't be able to physically monitor what's going on in the grow space.

I will be able to see how long the light is off - or on (hopefully)- by seeing the conditions in the grow space through remote sensor through the WiFi interface on my 5-in-1 Weather Station.

I was hoping to get the passive light-proof intake vent installed last night. That didn't happen. I'll try and get it installed when I get back tonight.

Make it a great day!

,
WHAB

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Puzzled...

Going to force it on and try to figure it out when I get back...

Still, make it a great day!

,
WHAB