myPlanetGanja.com

1 oversized pump

Ghetto Pricing Investment
Light: 160, bulb included
Fan: 75$
AC: 240$
Pump: 90$
Nutes 50$
Unbelievable Weed: Priceless

Total Investment around 600, but you can subtract the AC, because I would have to get that anyway.

I have the pump in a bottom Rez tub, and a shallow root chamber tub above, pump runs 20 min each hour spewing nutes into the top tub, my electric cost on the 400w, pump, and AC are about 35/month Estimated. The double chamber aleviates the worries of root rot sitting in the rez, and The AC maintains a max temp of 77F to keep the temps below 80F which is when root rot will occur.
I use 6ml of each nute per half gallon of tap water. I just set up the veg closet today, and this will allow me to shorten my harvest cycle by a few weeks.

I recouped my investment on the first grow, so Im costing my weed out at about 45$ per ounce maximum, if I only get 40 grams a cycle. Stay tuned for some awesome bud porn in the coming weeks.
Harvest date for the tub is early to mid February.

Bring it troll!

I have to give major Facebook Likes to "Advanced Nutrients" for their line of "Perfect PH" products. I have never had a PH problem since I started to use them after I lost my 200$ EC/PH meter to a Storage Unit Seizure. The directions call for 4 ml of each of the 3 part set, but I have always used about 3ml .Due to the fact that the plants will leech the nutrients in a weak solution, but burn up in an excessively strong mix.
I have notice that during the first 30 days of 12/12 the plants absorb the fert solution at a much more rapid rate than other stages of the grow, so I just keep adding every couple of days to keep the level above the pump inlet. These Nutes are very additive friendly from what the dealer tells me, but I have never used any boosters because of my frugal ways, and have always been satisfied with my yields, which in my opinion are more strain related than nutrient.
http://www.advancednutrients.com/produc ... cro-bloom/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

CLONING: Although I prefer the gel cloning solution from Olivias, which in my opinion is the best that I've ever used, I have for the past year or so using a powder that I picked up at Walmrt. I don't have the original jar, but I think it's brand is Bontone from the pics I saw on the website. It is slower acting to me, but very successful if the conditions are proper.

25 days

Irwin the Troll wrote:CLONING: Although I prefer the gel cloning solution from Olivias, which in my opinion is the best that I've ever used, I have for the past year or so using a powder that I picked up at Walmrt. I don't have the original jar, but I think it's brand is Bontone from the pics I saw on the website. It is slower acting to me, but very successful if the conditions are proper.

Beautiful plants Bud! Regarding cloning gels and powders. They each have their own problems. ucc

When I decide to clone a plant or a crop I use an aerated warm water spray cloner for efficiency and high rate of success.

I do soiless grows.

im afraid inhalin that powdery dust .. and imagine ... some fuckin mushrooms gonna grow inside the lungs .. wtf ...

I can't find the like button?!?! Anyway this is day 27, and I'm gonna put pics up every couple days, or I'll never find the post. Once it doesn't show up on the recent post page I have to start over.

deran wrote:im afraid inhalin that powdery dust .. and imagine ... some fuckin mushrooms gonna grow inside the lungs .. wtf ...

I always wear as full hazmat overalls and mask when I'm cloning, not for my lungs but I feel really professional in industrial gear

MadMoonMan wrote:
Beautiful plants Bud! Regarding cloning gels and powders. They each have their own problems. ucc

When I decide to clone a plant or a crop I use an aerated warm water spray cloner for efficiency and high rate of success.

I do soiless grows.

Sounds pretty fancy. I'd get laughed out of the trailer park. thanks for the tip though.

Actually triple M, I did make a cloner once out of a cheap aquarium aerator and a Tupperware container. It worked fine, but I prefer to start my clones in 1 inch rockwool to accommodate my netpot/rockwool method. I pop the cube in to a bigger cube, and pop it into a 3 inch pot.

I could also recommend a product called SuperThrive, it comes in a bottle that looks like something you would buy from a snake oil salesman in the old west.
[image]http://oldspartanfitness.com/wp-content ... bagger.jpg[/image]
But seems to be very good at assisting recovery of adverse conditions or stress. A little goes a long way, Ive had my 3 oz bottle for almost a decade, so I often need pliers to get the lid off, but it's shelf life seems to be infinite.
[image]https://www.hydroculture.co.uk/product_ ... _11358.jpg[/image]

The Strain seems like it's going to do very well like the track formation at 30 days should be pretty intense by 70 there's Neville's Haze which accounts for the extra flowering days

Next up is this white widow. Don't mind bars that's part of my laser illuminated security system

Pics for 33 days Bout 2 weeks?

This is definitely
my best grow of 2017!!!!

The paneling is SO 1970s... Thinking about some earth tone pattern wall paper, for the next grow.

Pretty excited about the TD strain. I have a solid mum in soil, so I should get many more of these chrystal covered buds. Havent seen this is a minute of grows. My last packs of seeds were for the most part duds, but couldn't bitch they were throwins for the most part. Even when they do sprout, you are at the will of genetic chance and stability. This is a good seed. The White widow seems to be of pretty good stock too. I made some beans with a male, but not sure if they ripened to a point of fertility. (see future threads for that shitshow.)

2 out of 3 WW clones have rooted nicely, I'll be dealing with those in a couple dayz. Maybe tomorrow if number 3 shows. [image]http://myplanetganja.com/download/file.php?id=2099[/image]Gonna need a bigger veg area.

lookking Good ! bud..

patience is a virtue.

I have 4 plants from my fall grow still growing.. actually they are clones...

I keep wanting to cut them down and shut down my grow for winter .. lol here it is january near 75 degrees

screws up all predictability in controling your plants temperatures?!!!

Pics at 40 days, flushing starts

^ shitty pics, sorry, I'll do something better

Better

I was flushing my grow to get ready for harvest, WHAT A MESS!!!

o m g ! ! !

Irwin the Troll wrote: I have notice that during the first 30 days of 12/12 the plants absorb the fert solution at a much more rapid rate than other stages of the grow,

Interesting, I hadn't considered or noticed that, but It feels right. Cool Thanks.
Some Rambling on .. This implies nute absorption follows a sinusoidal curve. Much as the equinox is when the rate of change of day length is the greatest. (as in: wow, the days in sept sure start getting noticeable shorter)
If the nute absorption is close to when a seedling and near harvest when the leaves turn color, the curve wouldn't even be skewed by much.

food = mass

simple as that

Gagz.. cough cough.. I feel sorry for who ever had to clean that toilet up.

I spent 4 years in army. 3.76 of that was latrine duty.

But I sure as hell ain't complaining beats Cafeteria duty and feeding the thousands of people any day of week.

So life kinda comes around to which end do you prefer to work at?

Ok ok I'm expecting some smarty pants to go I'm interior and prefer disection .

Or some crazy shit about "belly button openings"

duh. Is that crazy or not?

Stay out of my belly button. Its. mine. and only oney I got.
The door is closed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A-4VGfx5lU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Whats up with that weird smile after they slowly walk the wall AT THE END

Whats up with that fool? Is he drunk or something?

These pics suck!!! I must be the worst photographer on the site. HPS yellows everything. I'm going back in for some better shots.6 full weeks. Except the WW. That's at 3 I think.

Pics

here you got some free software ( i like the name too ) :
http://www.faststone.org/FSViewerDetail.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

im assuming that you are using a windoze box ^^

anyway, in the menu you will find a section for correcting colors, called "color balance" , looks like this :

[image]http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.co ... 970d-800wi[/image]


slide the cyan - red towards -> cyan
and
slide the yellow - blue towards -> blue
(about same values for both)

tada - white balance restored - quick n dirty, but enough for da webz

Gettin' there.

They look great... I just take a bunch of pictures aand try catching different times or lights hope something comes through. We all ain't professional photogs and recognize the light halos

Some of your pics remind me of some of my grows.

They are so very beautiful Bud.

Are those spider mite damages?

They aren't spider mite that's from the plant be in 56 days flowering I believe it's eating itself these are the last picks

Irwin the Troll wrote:I was flushing my grow to get ready for harvest,

I've heard of this but don't understand, So what's the reason behind the flushing? Better flavor in the weed; Is it noticeable?

Irwin the Troll wrote:They aren't spider mite that's from the plant be in 56 days flowering I believe it's eating itself these are the last picks

The burns on the edges of the leaves indicate a toxicity...the spots covering the leaves indicate a deficiency. An over use or misuse of ferts is the most common cause of these conditions showing up together. An over use of one element (toxicity) can inhibit the plant's ability to absorb other elements (deficiency). Folks that go on the heavy side with nutes can, over time, have a build up of unused nutes in the soil, which can then start to block nutes the plant wants.

If you are seeing this persistently at the end of your grows, but not in the first half of flower, then I would recommend you do a hard flush half way thru flower, to get rid of those excess ferts that remain in the soil, because over time they build up and cause problems.



And get some 4x8 sheets of plain white tile board to cover that paneling.

Intrinsic wrote:

Irwin the Troll wrote:I was flushing my grow to get ready for harvest,

I've heard of this but don't understand, So what's the reason behind the flushing? Better flavor in the weed; Is it noticeable?

Never heard of flushing soil, but I have been told flushing a hydro, helps with taste, never studied it enough to prove or disprove.

Butcher Bob wrote:

Irwin the Troll wrote:They aren't spider mite that's from the plant be in 56 days flowering I believe it's eating itself these are the last picks

The burns on the edges of the leaves indicate a toxicity...the spots covering the leaves indicate a deficiency. An over use or misuse of ferts is the most common cause of these conditions showing up together. An over use of one element (toxicity) can inhibit the plant's ability to absorb other elements (deficiency). Folks that go on the heavy side with nutes can, over time, have a build up of unused nutes in the soil, which can then start to block nutes the plant wants.

If you are seeing this persistently at the end of your grows, but not in the first half of flower, then I would recommend you do a hard flush half way thru flower, to get rid of those excess ferts that remain in the soil, because over time they build up and cause problems.



And get some 4x8 sheets of plain white tile board to cover that paneling.

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't the plants die at the end of the flowering cycle I would say this deficiency is due to the freshwater being of the different pH during the flushing cycle. Also this was a hydro project no soil involved. Here's a picture of the white widow which is it 30 days today

Irwin the Troll wrote:...don't the plants die at the end of the flowering cycle...

...I would say this deficiency is due to the freshwater being of the different pH during the flushing cycle.

Also this was a hydro project no soil involved.

Here's a picture of the white widow which is it 30 days today

Not like that they don't. Typical dying off would appear as a N deficiency. And the dying of annuals is a product of more than just the depletion of nutes...daylight hours and temps play a big role.

That is very possible...pH can cause certain nutrients to be locked out.

Exchange 'medium' for 'soil', same applies.

The edges of the leaves curling downward is a sign of moisture stress, which can be caused by an over abundance of nutrients. You might want to consider dropping the ppm slightly. Of course there could be other reasons...humidity, pH, lighting, etc...nute levels are just the easiest to test.

another thing : too strong osmotic cell permeabilty pressure

thats a special flush-only problem, when the ec and/or ph are too far apart, ions cant keep up with the speed of water, and you get strange over/under feeding symptoms

flushing was in the beginning a mostly soil thing, as soil can buffer things, which means it can hold more nutes than needed, so in order to translocate some ions by flushing with plain water, to speed up chlorophly degradation, growers used to put the triple amount of the pot volume in water, to get those ions loose which are rtapped inside the soil ...
only with expirience you can become successful with this tool on soil .... and its not the case when bacterias are your source of food, only when salts are used on soil

meanwhile ppl learned to lower the ec levels alongside the growth rate of the green mass, and without abrupt changes

Bob's on the money: nutrient lock-out due to over-fert.

My guess is a calcium lockout caused by too much phosphorous (flowering nutes, phosphoric acid in pH down etc). The affected leaves are towards the middle and top of the plant, indicating an immobile element (Ca) deficiency.

Your early pix show the plant is dark green and nice and healthy - certainly not a nutrient deficiency - but somewhere along the way it has gone into toxicity. Either too much nutrient, very low pH or possibly you didn't change your nutrient solution and let excess nutes (PK) build up. With recirculating hydro, you should be changing your nutes out every two weeks or so.

If you are currently flushing, then the plant may also be cannibalising itself, but I could first see the damage to those leaves back on January 23.

Also, if I understand what deran is saying, the osmotic pressure will be higher in the plant's roots, which contain nutrients, than in the fresh water around them. This can accelerate water uptake, leaving what few nutrients are in the water behind and displacing other nutrients within the plant itself. (Simple explanation?)

I'm not sure what your flushing pH is, but I believe the pH of plain water is mostly only relevant in relation to what is added to make it acidic or alkaline. However, pH variance in a chelated nutrient solution will affect various uptakes, which is why it's better to set your pH to around 5.5 (in hydro) and let it drift upwards (as it should do in a healthy system), instead of constantly adding pH down to keep it at a constant 5.5-5.6 etc.

Where I diverge with Bob is in the leaf clawing, which looks to me to be nitrogen and not moisture stress. With N clawing, it's only the tips that curl under, whereas moisture stress looks more like "drooping" of the whole leaf - which I can't really see, but maybe Bob can.

Personally, I think flushing is a bit of a myth: I've never noticed the difference in taste, and I only really add water to my coco grows right at the end because the flowering process has slowed and the plants don't really need any more nutrient - it's a waste to keep feeding them. All my plants are a healthy green when I chop them.

Now coco, similar to soil, will retain some nutrients, but I run (or used to run, when I was growing!) run-to-waste, which meant the coco was constantly flushed with fresh solution. With recirculating hydro, I wouldn't be flushing until the last week - if you have to flush at all - because some strains really put on weight in those last couple of weeks and are still uptaking nutrient.

I think where you saw more nutrient uptake in the first 30 days, it would be N, as the plant is still growing. After it has finished stretching and is really starting to flower, it will obviously require more PK. It is not that it requires any less nutrient, but rather less nitrogen and more phosphorous and potassium. Also, the first 30 days of flowering is the most rapid stage of growth for a plant, as it stretches out its branches to set up a framework for bud production.

And yes, deran is right: flushing is more a soil technique than hydro for the above reasons.

BTW, whatever you're doing with that White Widow soil grow, it's looking pretty good. There's a little bit of nitrogen clawing and tip burn, but nothing more than a sign you're on the edge. From memory, WW isn't a nute hog. I'd probably be looking at a bigger pot before it really starts to flower, too - it could have another 6 weeks or so to go by the looks of it. If you transplant, don't over water and don't add nutrient - give the roots time to grow into the bigger pot first.

EDIT: I've put a bit more info into this post after reading through Irwin's entire thread to see what else I could glean.

Prawn Connery wrote:Where I diverge with Bob is in the leaf clawing, which looks to me to be nitrogen and not moisture stress. With N clawing, it's only the tips that curl under, whereas moisture stress looks more like "drooping" of the whole leaf - which I can't really see, but maybe Bob can.

I wasn't referring to clawing, but rather the sides of the leaflets curling down slightly. It is my understanding that a flat leaf is optimal for cannabis. And that when the edges of the leaves start curling either up or down, that is a sign of moisture stress within the plant. While many things can cause moisture stress, in this case I think the food levels are just a touch too high (just my opinion)...generally healthy, just needs a little tweaking.

Getting hard to find seeds.

stocks all selling out

credit card companies not doing business with "cannibus" sites

global cartel shit really pisses me off

UN there get out now here comes a vermin infested smoke bomb to run your asses out

how can I grow Kosher Kush if I can't find a safe site to buy them from any more.

I'm to pissed off to look at dnagenetics

Its my credit card... what business is it of interpol if I buy 3 prostitutes in Amsterdam!

Window shopping is a constituitional right!

Black Power man .. rasises fist

EDITED LATER: ok I meant to post a picture of a fist with a sledgehammer but I forget so. The thousand mad mini munchkin march failed anyway.

We only had 36 munchkins and 35 were found to be kids with costumes

The 36 "person" is still being examined by NSA

Butcher Bob wrote:I wasn't referring to clawing, but rather the sides of the leaflets curling down slightly. It is my understanding that a flat leaf is optimal for cannabis. And that when the edges of the leaves start curling either up or down, that is a sign of moisture stress within the plant. While many things can cause moisture stress, in this case I think the food levels are just a touch too high (just my opinion)...generally healthy, just needs a little tweaking.

You're right, nutrient-related moisture stress. I think we were talking about the same thing - I mis-understood you, and thought you were referring to waterlogging of the roots.

Tasty bud

Flowering since April 14th Tangerine Dream

I'm testing out rollers new app. it seems to be working fine. I love being able to just dictate my poo. Snapping a picture and then having an instant upload is super convenient

[image]http://keys.lucidcentral.org/keys/sweet ... 20eggs.jpg[/image]

I think I have found the source of my leaves browning prematurely. I noticed the same issue with this grow, and under scrutiny, found some eggs..... haven't seen a mite yet, but will treat with soap and water.

Testing video upload.....50MB means 45? Anywho... this is the 30 day mark for these Tangerine Dream budz.....

I would say that Prawny gets the K+ on the browning amongst the mid level fan leaves.
The prior grow , plain water had been added to old nutrients during the last weeks of that grow.
I hesitate to say that the mite eggs did this much damage, as the mites are sporadic and sparse. I have yet to see any mites, just very few eggs here and there, I suspect they came out of the soil bag.
During the initial weeks of flowering the liquid nutes are absorbed at a pretty high rate, calling for adding nutes to the rez about once a week to maintain the level for pump operation. Still however old nutes remain in the solution, so this time, as soon as I see the brown spots, I changed the res with fresh nutes and it seems to have alleviated any further decay.

This plant just pasted day 36 so I may have to change again.. the rez is over 3 gallons, so I think I can stretch it out a bit longer than a smaller volume.

Eye candy for my b******

Thats really looking good Bud

[image]http://myplanetganja.com/download/file.php?id=2010[/image]
My brother was working the camera for me.

MadMoonMan wrote:Thats really looking good Bud

Also... Thats really good looking bud

Who you fucking calling b******?

Plants look nice.